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Trapeze  
Upper Right Ski Track 
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Trapeze  

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Bob Gaines, John Long, 4/87
Page Views: 893
Submitted By: Drewsky on Feb 10, 2008
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Description 

Starts 30 or so feet to the left of Lower Right Ski Track. A step-off move from a boulder (bolt protected) starts the climb, followed by a beguiling, 5.11 face balance crux. There is a runout mantle and 5.9 moves to reach the second bolt: beware. Above, tricky face climbing past bolts and a piton gains the roof. After a slight traverse rightward, acrobatic moves climb past the roof and onto the face above, moving right to join Lower Right Ski Track and the beginning of Upper Right Ski Track.


Location 

Left of Lower Right Ski Track, right of Left Ski Track; start atop boulder resting against wall.


Protection 

4 bolts, 1 pin; cams for the end. Bring a couple of cams for the finish; it is possible to either belay at the top of Lower Right Ski Track or continue to the top via Upper Right Ski Track. If the former option is chosen, an easy but exposed walk-off is possible. Otherwise, rappel from the rap station atop North Overhang WITH A 60 M ROPE. Then descend via the aforementioned exposed but easy walk-off.



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By Brian Chastain
Mar 11, 2013

This thing is SICK!!! Crux at the bottom bolt, pump factor from there on.........especially at the roof. Easier and better belay options if you just take it to the top, but it really screws communication up for the second and it is a little tough to second due to the angles.

By Drewsky
Dec 27, 2013

I've always been curious about the two leftward variations to this. It looks like the .12a still has a bolt but maybe not the .12c on the far left. Intriguing.