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Ryan getting into the crux
Climb a bouldery start on marginal crimps and pinches to an open hand shelf below another open hand shelf. The 11d is to the shelf. A couple 10 moves on a side pull in the small virtical finger crack and then stand on the shelf for the first of many jugs to come. The 5.8 jug haul to the top is fun and slightly overhung.
Epoxy bolt line between big top and green goblin.
7 bolts with a long runner on the first. Two bolt anchor.
Nov 10, 2014
rating: 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
So, I can see how this route is 11d for very tall or long climber (Im talking 6' and taller. Im average 5'10'' climber and reached the deadpoint throw by cutting feet, really dyno. It was my last climb after two days...so no send this time. But I will say, Ive climbed fat hand 5.12 and corn grinder 5.12c and trapeze artist does fall somewhere between these two routes. Also, Cole Fennel's newest guidebook has it rated as 12b.