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> Grandpa Peabody Boulder
Transporter Room
5.12c YDS 7b+ French 27 Ewbanks IX- UIAA 27 ZA E6 6b British V5 YDS 6C Font X
Avg: 2.5 from 4
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Routes in Grandpa Peabody Boulder
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Advanced Rockcraft Arete 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c V0 4 X |
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Ambrosia V11 8A X |
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Cave Problem V4 6B |
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Evilution V12-13 8B R |
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Evilution to the Lip V10 7C+ |
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Footprints V9 7C X |
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La Belette V11 8A |
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Lucid Dreaming V15 8C |
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Process, The V16 8C+ X |
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Rastaman Vibration V12 8A+ |
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Transporter Room 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b V5 6C X |
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Wanderer, The V9 7C X |
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| Type: | Boulder, 45 ft (14 m) |
| FA: | Dale Bard |
| Page Views: | 4,878 total · 35/month |
| Shared By: | Drewsky on Jan 8, 2013 |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Description
Want to really blur the line between bouldering and free soloing? Look no further than this route on the south face of this behemoth. Once bolted (you can still see some of the holes), this is now a toprope/solo. The crux is probably in the first 15 feet, pulling between decent edges, but the scare factor only increases the higher you go as the rock quality decreases. Crank past the edges, climb up and slightly left past a hueco via somewhat crumbly rock, mantle onto the slab and forge ahead solidly into the 'no fall' zone. From here the route/problem is definitely not entirely over and some of the rock is highly suspect. Trend a bit left and continue up the slab. Tread lightly: the questionable rock makes this a pretty serious undertaking!
Location
This route is around the corner to the right of the steep face that holds the more renowned problems on the boulder. It starts on some hollow looking edges (stand on pads) and goes more or less straight up to a large hueco. From here, go up and left and mantle onto a large edge. Trend left and then more or less straight up. Downclimb the Advanced Rockcraft Arete.
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