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 ADVANCED
Grandpa Peabody Boulder
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Advanced Rockcraft Arete 
Cave Problem 
Evilution 
Transporter Room 

Transporter Room 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b Hueco: V5 Font: 6C X

   
Type:  Boulder, 45'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b Hueco: V5 Font: 6C [details]
FA: Dale Bard
Page Views: 694
Submitted By: Drewsky on Jan 8, 2013

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Description 

Want to really blur the line between bouldering and free soloing? Look no further than this route on the south face of this behemoth. Once bolted (you can still see some of the holes), this is now a toprope/solo. The crux is probably in the first 15 feet, pulling between decent edges, but the scare factor only increases the higher you go as the rock quality decreases. Crank past the edges, climb up and slightly left past a hueco via somewhat crumbly rock, mantle onto the slab and forge ahead solidly into the 'no fall' zone. From here the route/problem is definitely not entirely over and some of the rock is highly suspect. Trend a bit left and continue up the slab. Tread lightly: the questionable rock makes this a pretty serious undertaking!

Location 

This route is around the corner to the right of the steep face that has Lucid Dreaming, Evilution and the V13 crimp thing (Blood Meridian) that doesn't top out (yet). It starts on some hollow looking edges (stand on pads) and goes more or less straight up to a large hueco. From here, go up and left and mantle onto a large edge. Trend left and then more or less straight up. Downclimb the Advanced Rockcraft Arete (make sure you know where this is, because I didn't and accidentally downclimbed the East Arete, which is a little bit harder and more serious).

Protection 

Crash pads and a cool head. It might be worth toproping this first (there is at least one bolted anchor on top of the boulder) unless you're into soloing. There was some dicey rock up high and the slab was more sustained than I was expecting. In fact, I would give this *** when climbed with a toprope.


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By Drewsky
Jan 8, 2013

Oops. I called it Teleporter Room by mistake; fixed! There's a great post from Kevin Jorgeson about his ascent of this route on his blog at kjorgeson.blogspot.com/2011/04... that has a good story about the first ascent of the route.
By Dustin Stephens
Jan 10, 2013

The 2nd ascent of Transporter was likely by Kevin Daniels in 2010: bishopbouldering.blogspot.com/... (see comments section)
By Luke Stefurak
From: Mountain View, CA
Jan 11, 2013

I believe the V13 crimpy thing is called Blood Meridian. A few people have been working on topping it out... Also there are a few other lines between Blood Meridian and Transporter Room: dpmclimbing.com/articles/view/...


Dan on Blood Meridian
By Drewsky
Jan 13, 2013

True: the other two lines are The Elevator and ZAP. The former starts left of Transporter Room and climbs through a hueco closer to the ground before joining Transporter Room for the finish; the latter shares The Elevator's start and branches out left. Apparently it is much harder up high (V9). bishopbouldering.blogspot.com/...