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The Papoose
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Centerfold T 
Hairpin T 
Hanging Gardens T 
Laid Back T 
Mercury Vapour T 
Mushroom T 
Obsession T 
Pamplemousse T,S 
Papoose One T 
Transit of Venus T 

Transit of Venus 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 300', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: ?
Season: West facing
Page Views: 117
Submitted By: Andy Laakmann on Aug 4, 2013

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Description 

Yet another fun linkup on the Papoose!

P1 is Mecury Vapour. Start of the belay platform about 80' to the right of Centrefold. There was a fixed rope in 2013, though it is certainly not needed. Two bolts and gear will get you the anchors, which are annoying placed far higher than the ledge. Not sure why....

Crazy fun and LONG traverse for P2. Very sustained climbing at 5.9. You definitely want your second to be comfortable at the grade, though it is protected fine for leader and follower. Skip TWO sets of anchors and belay at the base of the corner.

Entering the corner was the crux of the pitch for me. Seemed 5.10a. Of course, my wife just stepped left and made it easier. I guess I missed that option. Good gear and relatively easy climbing (5.7/5.8) to the anchor.

Run up the slanting crack past gear and two bolts and eventually clip the final bolt on Centrefold. Gently pad left on the glacier polish up to the sloping small ledge, and then back right to the anchor. These whole final section is definitely run-out, just a heads up and be solid at 5.8/5.9 slab.

Location 

100' right of Centrefold.

Protection 

Standard rack to #2 camalot. I placed a #3 a couple of times, though one could probably do without. I placed lots of offset nuts (medium size) on the p3 corner.


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