Transgression  5.10b

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90 feet Consensus:  5.10a/b [details] FA:  Magill and Anderson New Route:  Yes Submitted By:  richard magill on Aug 7, 2002 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

BETA PHOTO: Granite Huecoes!

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Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>> FYI: Parts of Devil's Head climbing area are closed March 1- July 31 every year for Peregrine falcon protection. The official closure order and associated map can be found here: www.fs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_DOCUMENTS/stelprdb5280647.pdf. For questions or more information, please contact the South Platte Ranger District office at 303.275.5610. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

This route is on the north-facing wall across from the big red tower. The wall is easily identified by a giant detached block sitting on top of it (about the size of a semi), and by its beautiful overhanging upper tier, which is riddled with cracks and huecos.

Transgression is all the way on the left side of the wall. It starts in a shallow dihedral, and then jogs slightly right until you reach a rest under the overhanging upper tier.Follow the most obvious crack straight up the overhang on finger locks and huecoes. Anchors exist about 90 feet up.

There are lots of cracks in the upper tier, so a myriad of possibilities exist for variations.

This is a great wall to climb on when it is hot. It sees sun only briefly in the morning in the middle of summer. Otherwise, it is in permanent shade.

Protection 

Standard rack - make sure you have 1 or 2 small cams to protect the crux moves near the top.