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 ADVANCED
Blood Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bloodbath T 
Bush League T 
Crack McMuffin T 
OW Negative T 
Seppuku T 
Transfusion T 

Transfusion 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 360', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Bob Goodwin, Merlin Lawson 2006
Page Views: 240
Submitted By: smassey on Apr 27, 2011

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Description 

Another beautiful wide crack on the Blood Wall. Pitch 1 goes up a pleasant 5.9 chimney to a belay below the obvious chockstone. Pitch 2 exits the chockstone on the left, and goes up the corner to a ledge with a fixed anchor. After turning the lip, you'll see the rap anchor for the bottom pitch.

Location 

Transfusion is the wide crack to the left of Seppuku. Follow the standard Blood Wall approach, but rather than cutting up towards Seppuku and OW Negative, stay low around the small buttress below them. Scramble up and left, across the large dead tree in the chasm, to the base of the crack.

Protection 

I took the recommended rack for Seppuku, but took a wrong turn on the approach and decided to do this instead. In retrospect, I would bring doubles of 2-5 Camalot, singles to 6, 2 ropes. The rap anchors may need replacing, so bring at least one red tri-cam and some tat. It is also recommended that you set the knot on the top rap about 30' below the anchor...


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