The route formerly known as "I'd Say 11a" has a new name and two additional pitches of stellar climbing!
Pitch 1 (11+): 60 feet, 7 bolts, thoughtful edging takes you up to an overhanging, crux section. Powerful, bouldery moves take you to a jug and a nice pull over a small roof. There are two bolts with chain/links at the anchor.
Alternative start to pitch 1, (10c): begin on "Go Down Gambling", traversing into "Transformation" for its final 10 feet to the pitch 1 anchor.
Pitch 2: (10c) 100 feet, 8 bolts, excellent face climbing leads up right to a steep, left-facing corner. Climb past this to a small ledge, traverse right and move up a shallow corner past two bolts to a chain anchor.
Pitch 3: (10b), 140 feet, 16 bolts. There is great movement throughout this long pitch, consistent and engaging. It has a chain anchor at a nice ledge.
Pitch 4: (10a), 150 feet, 13 bolts. Continued excellent incuts and sidepulls lead upward to some sweet underclinging, to laybacking to pulling over a small roof action. After the roof, continue past a couple more bolts finally belaying from a tree near the summit. I highly recommend extending your anchor down from the tree to belay up your partner.
Walk off to the east.
Start just left of Go Down Gambling.
Bolts, bolts, and more bolts. Bring 17 draws and shoes to walk off with. There are fixed anchors atop pitches 1, 2, and 3.
Lynn on pitch 3.
Taylor on P3!
|Comments on Transformation
|By Drew Spaulding|
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 4, 2013
Way to get'r done, you guys! And way to stretch those pitches out! I look forward to climbing this new line.... I've now put up 5 new multi-pitch routes to the left of "Slings and Arrows".... Check 'em out....