Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
b. Gelsa to Moe (closure)
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
5.8 Crack Climb T 
After You T 
Back to the future T 
Bird Cage T 
Birdbrain T,TR 
Birdland T 
El Camino T 
Elder Cleavage Direct T 
Farewell to Arms T 
Fat and Weak T 
Grease Gun Groove T 
Lonely Challenge T 
Loose Goose T 
Moe T 
Road Warrior T,TR 
Roseland T 
Shitface T,TR 
Silver Bullet T 
Slammin' the Salmon T,TR 
To Be Or Not To Be T 
Transcontinental Nailway T 
Tulip Mussel Garden T 
Up Yours T 
Yum Yum Yab Yum T 

Transcontinental Nailway 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Joe Fitschen & Art Gran - 1961
FFA: Jim McCarthy - 1965
Page Views: 5,122
Submitted By: Josh Janes on Feb 23, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (54)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: A clear shot showing the line

Description 

Transcontinental Nailway (AKA Freeway): an excellent, thought-provoking pitch.

Start about 40' left of Roseland at a steep, smooth slab that leads to a roof. Climb this slab and perform an extremely awkward move to get established below the roof (looks much easier than it is, and somewhat scary due to marginal pro). Pull the roof, step left, and climb a corner to bolt anchors at 80'.


Protection 

Standard Rack.


Photos of Transcontinental Nailway Slideshow Add Photo
Transcontinental Nail
Transcontinental Nail
Rich Perch almost done with the crux. It's still h...
Rich Perch almost done with the crux. It's still h...
Classic! 1973 or 74 replacing the pin in the horiz...
Classic! 1973 or 74 replacing the pin in the horiz...
Notice the gaiters, blown out armpit, RR's, dangli...
Notice the gaiters, blown out armpit, RR's, dangli...
Rich Perch falling.
Rich Perch falling.
At the beginning of the difficulties.
At the beginning of the difficulties.
I'm pretty sure this was my high point. See next p...
I'm pretty sure this was my high point. See next p...

Comments on Transcontinental Nailway Add Comment
Show which comments
By Paul Crowder
Mar 9, 2006
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

The vintage photos that are posted on this page as of 3/9/06 are really entertaining. My opinion - although getting past the overhang is reasonably hard, I think that the crux is actually not too far off the ground, where my memory is that you have to do a thin face move in order to make your way up and right to establish a position underneath the overhang. This is a great route.
By Ivan Rezucha
From: Fort Collins, CO
Mar 9, 2006

The move onto the slab on the bottom is only 5.9, but scary, since the gear is mediocre and at your foot as you high step onto the slab using a one fingertip pocket. Someone had a bad accident cratering from this move about a year ago.

That one-finger pocket didn't exist originally--there was a pebble where the pocket now is. The pebble loosened over time and eventually fell out or was pulled out (hopefully just with fingers).

A similar thing happened on the ceiling crux. There is now a nice 2 or 3 fingertip slot that you layback to reach the jug. That slot didn't exist originally. My good friend and regular partner Jeff Pofit excavated the debris from the slot in 1974 with his fingers as he was scrabbling for a decent hold.
By Ivan Rezucha
From: Fort Collins, CO
Oct 19, 2008

A nice variation at about 10a with decent pro goes left from the top of the corner above the crux and then straight up to the anchors. This avoids the scary 8 face move at the end of the regular route (which steps right out of the corner and then back left across an unprotected face).
By Micah M
Apr 19, 2009

We went to the top in 1 pitch but the 2nd two thirds was all gardening and corn flacks. Is there a good finish to this climb?
By Ivan Rezucha
From: Fort Collins, CO
Apr 20, 2009

There's a "direct" John Bragg 5.10 P2 that goes, I think, more or less straight up after the P1 anchors. I know it's up there somewhere, but I can't picture it. It's been a while...
By Dan Flynn
Administrator
From: MA
Sep 25, 2013
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13

Slab not bad, crux has good gear... but man, that 5.8 stuff at the top took some focus to get through! PG13 in my book.