Tranquility 

Above the alcove, the crack to the right ,on Tranquility, is well beyond 5.6.

I agree with Woody. No way is this section a 5.6.

I have led this thing a couple times now and think you Woody and you Karen are nuts! 5.6.............ha!

Okay Locker. Coming soon to an experience near you will be an opportunity to prove to me that the right-hand crack is only 5.6. Being so easy, you won't need any pro at all. I'll even take pictures. Hell, you won't even need a belay.

OK Woody, I will upgrade it for your sake..........I think it goes at around 5.6c/d..................

locker, when you solo this 5.6 crack just make sure you have "proof"....photo, eh???? Oh, and make sure your hair is just right for this photo shot.

Yeah Locker. And be sure to let me know so I can be there to get a series of pictures of the medics, ambulance etc.

we're talking about a pretty easy route here Karen and Woody..........it is not hard at all! If I were to need "PROOF" of leading this one this late in the game...........I might as well place myself in an "Old folks home".............Sorry you two had problems with it. But that in itself does not up the rating....The rating is relative...maybe you lead on "Off" days? Maybe I lead more than once the route on "on days"? Whatever the situation, I stick with 5.6 (Maybe Hard 5.6 if there is such a thing)

If you want the 5.6 take the exposed arete to the left of these cracks(tie off flakes)The two cracks above are 5.8 according to Al's book. I have done the left one it felt 5.8. The right I have no clue.Fun route either way.

Thank God (forgive me aclu ), now a little support. Locker, I'm always right. The crack to the right is rated 5.8; however, I found it a bit more demanding than that. It's a good deal more difficult than the left crack. The line shown on the picture on this site shows "Tranquility" going up the right crack. That is an error.

Well, I on-sight free soloed it without having read this controversy and I don't recall any cognative dissodence regarding the grade or my location on this route. I thought 5.6 was fine for a grade on it.As well, I thought it was a really nice route and deserved more than 1 star. I'd recommend the route, which is the definintion of a 2-star route on this site. Maybe it's a 2-star solo but only a 1-star lead-climb due to the circuitous nature of it- no problem on solo, but not so nice with rope drag?

At the alcove, before moving into the right trending crack to get around the overhang, it didn't seem like a "sucky" move to me. Technical - yes - but not "sucky" as a couple of quite solid jams got me over to and established on the crack.

I'd do Tranquility again!

5.6+.

The right crack is not a 5.6. It's at least as hard as We Dive at Dawn, which I climbed for the first time the same day.

The route description is okay, but the comments are misleading. If you are going to do the 5.6, stay out of the cracks! The left leaning crack is easier to get into than the awkward move to get into the right leaning crack, but they're both off-route. To stay 5.6, traverse right out of the alcove and head around the corner, using friction for the feet and some underclings for hands. Once you turn the corner you head up a short friction ramp to the saddle between the first and second summit. Rope drag is an issue around the corner, but this keeps the climbing 5.6.

The obvious wide crack that trends Left out of the alcove (topmost one of two) protects easily with a hand sized cam - this is the only pro needed for the section.

Easier than the hand traverse on Overhang Bypass, so this gets 5.6 from me.

This route is not 5.6.

Neither crack is part of this route.

It's a fun route, but it's misrepresented in the main beta photo here on mountain project. See the photos I added for the correct route. If you read the historical route info, you'll find that it's clear that this route goes up the exposed arete above and to the right of the roof.

If you follow this route, the climbing remains easy and is quite exposed, really adding to the mini-adventure of it. Lots of opps for pro, including slinging a nice plate before the hardest move before the lower summit.

Did the apparently 5.8 variation by taking the right leaning crack out of the alcove. We knew rope drag may be an issue, and went to the trouble of dividing this up into 3 pitches. The rope drag was bad anyway. Not great places for setting up the anchors either. Not worth the trouble.

I'd give that crack portion a 5.8+. Those are definitely not pleasant moves but I enjoyed the challenging surprise. Next time, I'll definitely do the correct route. Thanks for the right photo, Chris.

Fun route.

I'm not sure why people are calling the right-trending crack sandbagged, because it seems a 5.6 seems fitting for Joshua Tree. Maybe a bit heady due to the exposure, but relatively easy moves.

Pretty bad rope drag. Make sure you sling liberally if you take the right-trending crack.

Also, the first 60 feet or so (until you get to the bolt), while easy climbing, has minimal placement opportunities. Might freak out a new leader who isn't used to climbing above their gear.

The right trending crack above the bolt is significantly more difficult than Chasing the Sun (5.7).

We opted for the left crack above the alcove when the face toward the arete looked a bit run-out. The left crack that is listed in several of the guides as the route for Direct South Face felt accurate at around 5.7. Really just a couple of moves followed by some easy climbing. Maybe a good option.