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Moosedog Tower
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Tranquility 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 120'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,787
Submitted By: Brian Reynolds on Mar 2, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (45)
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BETA PHOTO: Moosedog Tower - SW Face

Description 

Tranquility goes up the toe of the south buttess of Moosedog Tower and. At the alcove about 50 feet up, curve right around the overhang to the 1st "summit." Continue up slabby face climbing to the top of the formation.

This climb gets one star only if you can't lead 5.8. Otherwise, skip this one and climb Direct South Face. Moosedog has a nice summit and a fun, free-hanging rappel descent, but this route is a fairly unpleasant way to get there. There are some nice moves off the ground, and the second pitch is fun, but the moves to get around the overhang on the first pitch, while not particularly difficult, pretty much suck.

Although a 60m rope will reach to the top, most climbers divide this into two pitches to alleviate rope drag. If you're comfortable on run out 5.6 slab, there's no need to build the intermediate belay -- just don't place any pieces on the second pitch.


Protection 

Standard rack. Camalots to #3. Some smaller nuts may be useful on the second pitch.



Photos of Tranquility Slideshow Add Photo
This is the route Tranquility follows if you read the guides written by Alan Bartlett, Randy Vogel, or the old guide by John Wolfe and Bob Dominick.  You don't walk around to the right above the roof, you move left to the exposed arete.  This felt like 5.6, maybe 5.5 to me.
BETA PHOTO: This is the route Tranquility follows if you read ...
Moosedog Tower Beta photo from the classic 1979 edition of John Wolfe and Bob Dominick's guide.
BETA PHOTO: Moosedog Tower Beta photo from the classic 1979 ed...
Comments on Tranquility Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jan 13, 2014
By Woody Stark
Jan 10, 2005

Above the alcove, the crack to the right ,on Tranquility, is well beyond 5.6.

By Karen
Jan 13, 2005
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

I agree with Woody. No way is this section a 5.6.

By Locker
From: Yucca Valley, CA
Jan 14, 2005
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

I have led this thing a couple times now and think you Woody and you Karen are nuts! 5.6.............ha!

By Woody Stark
Jan 15, 2005

Okay Locker. Coming soon to an experience near you will be an opportunity to prove to me that the right-hand crack is only 5.6. Being so easy, you won't need any pro at all. I'll even take pictures. Hell, you won't even need a belay.

By Locker
From: Yucca Valley, CA
Jan 16, 2005
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

OK Woody, I will upgrade it for your sake..........I think it goes at around 5.6c/d..................

By Karen
Jan 18, 2005
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

locker, when you solo this 5.6 crack just make sure you have "proof"....photo, eh???? Oh, and make sure your hair is just right for this photo shot.

By Woody Stark
Jan 19, 2005

Yeah Locker. And be sure to let me know so I can be there to get a series of pictures of the medics, ambulance etc.

By Locker
From: Yucca Valley, CA
Jan 19, 2005
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

we're talking about a pretty easy route here Karen and Woody..........it is not hard at all! If I were to need "PROOF" of leading this one this late in the game...........I might as well place myself in an "Old folks home".............Sorry you two had problems with it. But that in itself does not up the rating....The rating is relative...maybe you lead on "Off" days? Maybe I lead more than once the route on "on days"? Whatever the situation, I stick with 5.6 (Maybe Hard 5.6 if there is such a thing)

By Dave Cox
Jan 20, 2005

If you want the 5.6 take the exposed arete to the left of these cracks(tie off flakes)The two cracks above are 5.8 according to Al's book. I have done the left one it felt 5.8. The right I have no clue.Fun route either way.

By Woody Stark
Jan 21, 2005

Thank God (forgive me aclu ), now a little support. Locker, I'm always right. The crack to the right is rated 5.8; however, I found it a bit more demanding than that. It's a good deal more difficult than the left crack. The line shown on the picture on this site shows "Tranquility" going up the right crack. That is an error.

By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jan 16, 2006
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Well, I on-sight free soloed it without having read this controversy and I don't recall any cognative dissodence regarding the grade or my location on this route. I thought 5.6 was fine for a grade on it.As well, I thought it was a really nice route and deserved more than 1 star. I'd recommend the route, which is the definintion of a 2-star route on this site. Maybe it's a 2-star solo but only a 1-star lead-climb due to the circuitous nature of it- no problem on solo, but not so nice with rope drag?

By Bill Lawry
From: New Mexico
Apr 16, 2006

At the alcove, before moving into the right trending crack to get around the overhang, it didn't seem like a "sucky" move to me. Technical - yes - but not "sucky" as a couple of quite solid jams got me over to and established on the crack.

I'd do Tranquility again!

By Blitzo
Sep 22, 2006

5.6+.

By Tyler Logan
From: Bishop, CA
Dec 25, 2007

The right crack is not a 5.6. It's at least as hard as We Dive at Dawn, which I climbed for the first time the same day.

By JayCap
Jan 7, 2009

The route description is okay, but the comments are misleading. If you are going to do the 5.6, stay out of the cracks! The left leaning crack is easier to get into than the awkward move to get into the right leaning crack, but they're both off-route. To stay 5.6, traverse right out of the alcove and head around the corner, using friction for the feet and some underclings for hands. Once you turn the corner you head up a short friction ramp to the saddle between the first and second summit. Rope drag is an issue around the corner, but this keeps the climbing 5.6.

By 72HW
Apr 13, 2009
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

The obvious wide crack that trends Left out of the alcove (topmost one of two) protects easily with a hand sized cam - this is the only pro needed for the section.

Easier than the hand traverse on Overhang Bypass, so this gets 5.6 from me.

By Brian Hench
From: Costa Mesa, CA
Nov 24, 2009
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

This route is not 5.6.

By Chris D
From: the couch
Jan 18, 2010

Neither crack is part of this route.

It's a fun route, but it's misrepresented in the main beta photo here on mountain project. See the photos I added for the correct route. If you read the historical route info, you'll find that it's clear that this route goes up the exposed arete above and to the right of the roof.

If you follow this route, the climbing remains easy and is quite exposed, really adding to the mini-adventure of it. Lots of opps for pro, including slinging a nice plate before the hardest move before the lower summit.

By attila
Jan 28, 2010

Did the apparently 5.8 variation by taking the right leaning crack out of the alcove. We knew rope drag may be an issue, and went to the trouble of dividing this up into 3 pitches. The rope drag was bad anyway. Not great places for setting up the anchors either. Not worth the trouble.

By Javier L
From: Asheville, NC
Jan 9, 2011

I'd give that crack portion a 5.8+. Those are definitely not pleasant moves but I enjoyed the challenging surprise. Next time, I'll definitely do the correct route. Thanks for the right photo, Chris.

By agd
Jan 19, 2012
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Fun route.

I'm not sure why people are calling the right-trending crack sandbagged, because it seems a 5.6 seems fitting for Joshua Tree. Maybe a bit heady due to the exposure, but relatively easy moves.

Pretty bad rope drag. Make sure you sling liberally if you take the right-trending crack.

Also, the first 60 feet or so (until you get to the bolt), while easy climbing, has minimal placement opportunities. Might freak out a new leader who isn't used to climbing above their gear.

By Ben Harrison
Jan 24, 2012

The right trending crack above the bolt is significantly more difficult than Chasing the Sun (5.7).

By KrisK82
Jan 30, 2012

We opted for the left crack above the alcove when the face toward the arete looked a bit run-out. The left crack that is listed in several of the guides as the route for Direct South Face felt accurate at around 5.7. Really just a couple of moves followed by some easy climbing. Maybe a good option.

By Alex Peterson
From: Kamas, Utah
Jun 8, 2013
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13

Recommend you do the route the way it is depicted in the "Old-Fashion" picture. That is go hard left at the alcove out to the airy corner. Set some pro then head straight up the arete to the false submit. Having done the described route adn the "old-Fashion" picture route, I give the old fashion 3 stars. Plenty of pro opportunities and holds, but you are dancing on a very exposed arete. It's a hoot!!

By RJNakata
From: SoCal
Nov 14, 2013
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

This is a nice "mini adventure." Thanks to Chris D for posting the beta photo.
Moving left to the exposed arÍte is definitely the highlight of the route.
Bob Gaines also shows the route on the left-side arÍte.
I'll do this one again for sure.

By David Cisneros
From: oceanside ca
Jan 13, 2014
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

I led this on 1/12/14 and followed the route from the alcove hard left to the arÍte and up. Great exposure stepping up onto the arÍte and a few good flakes to tie off, and a good cam placement around the corner of the arÍte to protect the step up to reach the first of two flakes. The rock along the arÍte approaching the false summit had a crumbly nature and I avoided placing any nuts in bad rock, I instead ran out the last bit placed one piece then dropped into the notch to end the pitch and belay. A bit of rope drag on this second pitch but not too bad. Overall a good route very fun good exposure good belay stances, and great rappell to finish. I'd like to do it again, maybe try the direct south face start.