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Cavity
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Tranquil Evening 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Bob Archbold '01
Page Views: 1,028
Submitted By: Steve Mestdagh on Sep 1, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (24)
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Tyler at the crux. Thanks for the awesome route Bo...
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Description 

There are 4 bolted routes on the side of Cavity rock facing Toy Boat. This is the 2nd from left as facing the wall. Climb a devious face to an overhang. Crank the overhang and figure out how to reach the bomber crack above. Probably more difficult for us short people. One more tricky move after the crack. Anchors on top. This is quite the cool short climb. It has a number of cruxes which are all overcome by using a different style.


Protection 

7 or 8 draws including anchors



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By Andrew Gram
Administrator
From: Salt Lake City, UT
May 30, 2005
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Good sustained route that packs a lot of varied climbing into a short package. I thought the crux was honest 10a - felt comparable to 10a routes at Eldo or Little Cottonwood.

By Anonymous Coward
Nov 17, 2005

About as hard as "Green Spur" 5.9 in Eldo, easier than "Valdez Overhang" 5.9 across the road and the same as "Lead Fillings" 5.9 just around the corner. Neat moves but real short.

By Curt Nelson
From: Fort Collins, CO
Jul 9, 2007
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I don't know how it could compare to anything in Eldo, but this is a fun little climb for sure.

By S. Stember
From: St. Paul, MN
Sep 8, 2008
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

There are only 5 bolts on this route, not 7-8. Bring 7 however so you can clip the anchors. The bolts are just close enough together to keep it safe, but there is potential for hitting one of 2-3 ledges on the route if you fall.

By Kirtis
From: Rapid City, SD
Jan 24, 2012
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

Great route realy fun crux. It felt 5.10 c ish but I just think that was because it was 35 degrees out when I climbed it.

By Alex Peterson
From: Kamas, Utah
Jul 8, 2012

I'm past the crux and into the off-width at this point (recommend taping up or you'll leave some skin).  The crux is the section just below my fight, requires some strenuous moves, but off of some good foot placements.  We set this up as a TR by climbing the trough to the far right of this wall.  The trough is an easy scramble up (5.4 is a tricky move at the start).  The trough allows access to all anchors at the top.  Fun route, definitely need to come back and red-point this one.
I'm past the crux and into the off-width at this point (recommend taping up or you'll leave some skin). The crux is the section just below my fight, requires some strenuous moves, but off of some good foot placements. We set this up as a TR by climbing the trough to the far right of this wall. The trough is an easy scramble up (5.4 is a tricky move at the start). The trough allows access to all anchors at the top. Fun route, definitely need to come back and red-point this one.