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trango ball nuts
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Apr 11, 2012
me climbing at lost horizon, NH
hey ive been looking to buy some ball nuts and i was wondering what everyones thoughts where on the trango ball nutz versus the Camp bll nuts? im thinking about just getting the 2 largest sizes. any thoughts? patrick donahue
From Gunnison, Colorado
Joined Mar 15, 2010
418 points
Apr 11, 2012
Pretty sure I heard Mal-formerly-of-Trango say both the Trango and CAMP versions are made in the same factory and the only difference is how the two rated them. Aric Datesman
Joined Sep 16, 2008
145 points
Apr 11, 2012
Thunderbolt Peak in the Palisades
They fit in small pin scars well. They also fit in parallel slots that would normally not hold a small cam. They are also rated higher than their comparable cam counterparts. The purple works well on diedre in squamish.I cannot find any difference in teh two brands. Both work fine for me. Not recommended for aid as the ball part is soft and can deform easily. randy88fj62
Joined May 28, 2010
66 points
Apr 11, 2012
My climbing partners always look at them in disbelief, but I love my red and yellow. When I place them, I'm glad I had them; rarely will anything else work.

On that note, any recommendations on how to figure out which way to place them. Sometimes it's obvious. Other times after a test yank pulls them out, I flip them upside down and they're bomber, but it's not always easy to read which way is better.
steve.d
Joined Jan 10, 2012
0 points
Administrator
Apr 11, 2012
tomato, tomotto, kill mike amato.
get the 3 smallest. the #3 is just smaller than black alien and pretty useful. also, the purple one (i think #5?) fills that horrid gap between blue and green alien. slim
Joined Dec 1, 2004
2,001 points
Apr 11, 2012
A
My favorite piece of gear! They go where others won't. I have a set and use the shit outta the smallest three. Lately I've been using the bigger ones for anchors on multipitch routes to save cams for climbing. knowbuddy
Joined Jul 19, 2010
211 points
Apr 11, 2012
I sold off the #4 and #5 because they match cams that will probably work better. #1-3 are great but falling on the #1 seems like a bad idea. I have fallen on the #2 though. CAMP and Trango versions are identical I think. Tradoholic
Joined Apr 17, 2004
12,441 points
Apr 11, 2012
Coffee after freezing our asses off near James Pea...
johnL wrote:
The wee little ones are awesome when you have to use them though.


I second that. Good for pin scars many times.
Stich
From Colorado Springs, Colorado
Joined Jan 1, 2001
1,494 points
Apr 11, 2012
I have 1, 2, and 3 looks like the 1 have been used once 20 bucks each
if your interested let me know and we'll figure out the rest.
will smith
From boulder
Joined Jan 16, 2008
41 points
Apr 12, 2012
...
"Not recommended for aid as the ball part is soft and can deform easily."...

I find that interesting. So you're saying that they're fine to fall on (which of course generates way more weight than ones body weight), but not good for body weight?

I HAVE to be missing something here.
Locker
From Yucca Valley, CA
Joined Oct 13, 2002
2,361 points
Apr 12, 2012
high e
Well....You aren't missing anything. Just being Misled. They are intended for clean aid, but the larger sizes can ALSO be utilized as pro for trad. cms829
Joined Aug 16, 2011
126 points
Apr 12, 2012
Gunking
Locker wrote:
"Not recommended for aid as the ball part is soft and can deform easily."... I find that interesting. So you're saying that they're fine to fall on (which of course generates way more weight than ones body weight), but not good for body weight? I HAVE to be missing something here.


I imagine it is because repeated loading will mank up the cable and ball, making the things useless in a short period of time.
JohnWesely
From Red River Gorge
Joined Nov 21, 2009
673 points
Apr 12, 2012
high e
They're a lot more durable then they look. The ball isn't that soft. They are an aid piece specifically made to be used in pin scars and the like, instead of more pins. The smaller sizes are rated to 4.5-8 KN. You will ruin them faster falling on them free than aiding on em. cms829
Joined Aug 16, 2011
126 points
Apr 12, 2012
Thunderbolt Peak in the Palisades
Locker wrote:
"Not recommended for aid as the ball part is soft and can deform easily."... I find that interesting. So you're saying that they're fine to fall on (which of course generates way more weight than ones body weight), but not good for body weight? I HAVE to be missing something here.


Locker,
When I would use ball nuts for aid the ball would acquire lots of dents and the wire would bend causing the ball to not align with the bowl. In my opinion shelling out more cash for offsets would be of more use for aid routes with pin scars. Repeated use of ball nuts for aid mangles them pretty easily. They are great for aid but in hindsight I would rather invest in smaller cams.

For free climbing they are great to have as they add extra secuity and don't produce a lot of bulk on the rack.
randy88fj62
Joined May 28, 2010
66 points
Apr 12, 2012
on top of the RNWF June 2012
for thin seams in aid it is all about the cam hooks. If I had the cash though I would pick up some of the small ballnutz.
still on seams I find I can use camhooks and then find small irregularities every few feet to place brassies in case I pop.
Keenan Waeschle
From Bozeman, MT
Joined Feb 8, 2010
217 points
Apr 12, 2012
high e
Agreed as progression pieces cam hooks are key. As far as pro, Ball nuts work well. The one green I have has been on my rack for the longest. Placed many times including a ton of bounce tests. Its not dented nor is the wire bent. I could see how this could potentially happen and add up over time if you fall on them, but I personally have been pleasantly surprised how well its held up. Im actually in the market for a few more.

Randy, are yours really in that bad of shape? Im honestly curious (not saying they aren't) Have any pics? Mine have obviously gotten scratched up and maybe bent a hair but otherwise are like new. And Ive bounced the crap out of them. Im curious because Ive been thinking of buying a few more. What brand are yours?
cms829
Joined Aug 16, 2011
126 points
Apr 12, 2012
Thunderbolt Peak in the Palisades
cms829,
I have an older camp lowe small yellow one and I stopped using it for aid because the wire got bent and makes it difficult to place.
randy88fj62
Joined May 28, 2010
66 points
Apr 16, 2012
...

"Well....You aren't missing anything. Just being Misled. They are intended for clean aid"...

Yep!

That's why THIS one made ZERO SENSE...


"Not recommended for aid"...
Locker
From Yucca Valley, CA
Joined Oct 13, 2002
2,361 points
Apr 16, 2012
Me and my Fetish I guess.. ;)
I have a full set I could part with. I'll have to look and see but I think i have two reds and then one each of the next bigger three sizes so five total, brand new. Daryl Allan
From Sierra Vista, AZ
Joined Sep 13, 2006
1,158 points
Mar 31, 2013
Me at Linville Gorge!!!
will smith wrote:
I have 1, 2, and 3 looks like the 1 have been used once 20 bucks each if your interested let me know and we'll figure out the rest.

I would not recommend buy any used Climbing Gear, Ropes, Harnesses, Ect...Climb Shoes are a little Different...You never know what the gear/ropes have been through and looks tells Nothing!!! I have 4 Ball Nuts, THeir Bomber Protection for Trad. Climbing...But Only Designed for 1 Fall, but when nothing fits, it's more Solid than a Cam if placed right!!! Buy New!!! Expencive 1 time use and meant for only non-wieth bearing Uses( Except that 1 lead fall..no aid, hanging on, Back-up Ancor Only, with slick in it(no weight, just extra back-up)...So Really 2 Uses , 1 mainly Trad. Leading or no weight on it backup!!! After Weight is put on the Copper molds... Great pro high price, 1 fall or weight put on and time to Retire!!! Climb Safe!!! I would love to get for half price but..Only NEW!!! Good Luck!
Jason Blevins
From Burlington, NC
Joined Apr 24, 2012
132 points
Mar 31, 2013
Me at Linville Gorge!!!
randy88fj62 wrote:
cms829, I have an older camp lowe small yellow one and I stopped using it for aid because the wire got bent and makes it difficult to place.

I would not recommend buy any used Climbing Gear, Ropes, Harnesses, Ect...Climb Shoes are a little Different...You never know what the gear/ropes have been through and looks tells Nothing!!! I have 4 Ball Nuts, THeir Bomber Protection for Trad. Climbing...But Only Designed for 1 Fall, but when nothing fits, it's more Solid than a Cam if placed right!!! Buy New!!! Expencive 1 time use and meant for only non-wieth bearing Uses( Except that 1 lead fall..no aid, hanging on, Back-up Ancor Only, with slick in it(no weight, just extra back-up)...So Really 2 Uses , 1 mainly Trad. Leading or no weight on it backup!!! After Weight is put on the Copper molds... Great pro high price, 1 fall or weight put on and time to Retire!!! Climb Safe!!! I would love to get for half price but..Only NEW!!! Good Luck!
Jason Blevins
From Burlington, NC
Joined Apr 24, 2012
132 points
Mar 31, 2013
Me at Linville Gorge!!!
cms829 wrote:
They're a lot more durable then they look. The ball isn't that soft. They are an aid piece specifically made to be used in pin scars and the like, instead of more pins. The smaller sizes are rated to 4.5-8 KN. You will ruin them faster falling on them free than aiding on em.

what is the Trango #1 Kn rating??? Trango says..their ballnuts are rated between 7-8 Kn??? ,Seller site said #1 was 4.5 Kn???...Please Answer if you know for Absolute!!!!! Camp Says 8Kn on #1?? Thanks!
Jason Blevins
From Burlington, NC
Joined Apr 24, 2012
132 points
Mar 31, 2013
Me at Linville Gorge!!!
Keenan Waeschle wrote:
for thin seams in aid it is all about the cam hooks. If I had the cash though I would pick up some of the small ballnutz. still on seams I find I can use camhooks and then find small irregularities every few feet to place brassies in case I pop.


Locker... your on to the use of this!
I would not recommend buy any used Climbing Gear, Ropes, Harnesses, Ect...Climb Shoes are a little Different...You never know what the gear/ropes have been through and looks tells Nothing!!! I have 4 Ball Nuts, THeir Bomber Protection for Trad. Climbing...But Only Designed for 1 Fall, but when nothing fits, it's more Solid than a Cam if placed right!!! Buy New!!! Expencive 1 time use and meant for only non-wieth bearing Uses( Except that 1 lead fall..no aid, hanging on, Back-up Ancor Only, with slick in it(no weight, just extra back-up)...So Really 2 Uses , 1 mainly Trad. Leading or no weight on it backup!!! After Weight is put on the Copper molds... Great pro high price, 1 fall or weight put on and time to Retire!!! Climb Safe!!! I would love to get for half price but..Only NEW!!! Good Luck!
Jason Blevins
From Burlington, NC
Joined Apr 24, 2012
132 points
Mar 31, 2013
Me at Linville Gorge!!!
cms829 wrote:
They're a lot more durable then they look. The ball isn't that soft. They are an aid piece specifically made to be used in pin scars and the like, instead of more pins. The smaller sizes are rated to 4.5-8 KN. You will ruin them faster falling on them free than aiding on em.


4.5Kn is Only alittle over 1,000lbs, in a fall you can 5x your wight in not too many feet!!!
Jason Blevins
From Burlington, NC
Joined Apr 24, 2012
132 points
Mar 31, 2013
1. You can do multiple quotes on one post.

2. It's far from black and white than "DON'T BUY USED!!!!!1111!"

3. You should work on some sentence structure, or less controlled substances while posting. I grew up with shortened "internet speak" and can barely figure out what you're trying to say.
NorCalNomad
From San Francisco
Joined Oct 6, 2011
116 points
Mar 31, 2013
Me at Linville Gorge!!!
knowbuddy wrote:
My favorite piece of gear! They go where others won't. I have a set and use the shit outta the smallest three. Lately I've been using the bigger ones for anchors on multipitch routes to save cams for climbing.


Make sure to use as Backup Ancors and give them a little slack, not wieght on them!!! If you fall that ballnut's Copper will mold into the crack!!! Reallly meant for 1 Major weight Hit!!!
Jason Blevins
From Burlington, NC
Joined Apr 24, 2012
132 points


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