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> 5. Tralfamadore Wall
Tralfamadore
5.9+ YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA E1 5a British
Avg: 3.3 from 21
votes
Routes in 5. Tralfamadore Wall
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22 Bottles of Booze T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Beautiful Day T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Beyond Nuts! T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Covid Spike T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Hop Knot T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Mother Road T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Rock Quarriers Way T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Tralfamadore T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Weeping Warrior T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | Larry Coats, Dugald Bremner 1976 |
| Page Views: | 2,771 total · 17/month |
| Shared By: | Larry Coats on Sep 25, 2010 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
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Description
As mentioned in the intro, Tralfamador climbs the obvious orange-stained cracks that lead to the square-cut, right-facing corner/roof in the middle of the North Side crag. Begin by scrambling or rappelling to the broken ledge below the leaning block at the start of the route.
Pitch 1: (5.9+) Easy climbing ascends the leaning block and double corner cracks above. The cracks converge, then difficulty arises as the orange rock appears. A few moves of thin tips crack (originally protected with a piton) lead to a foothold stance with anchor arranged from small to medium pieces, or step left and belay from the wider crack below the roof.
Pitch 2: (5.9+). Need you ask? Step over to the corner below the roof, then undercling to the lip and crank over to the wider crack above. Easier climbing (5.8) leads to the rim.
Note: The entire climb can be done as a single pitch, but requires some clever work with runners to avoid rope drag over the roof section.
Pitch 1: (5.9+) Easy climbing ascends the leaning block and double corner cracks above. The cracks converge, then difficulty arises as the orange rock appears. A few moves of thin tips crack (originally protected with a piton) lead to a foothold stance with anchor arranged from small to medium pieces, or step left and belay from the wider crack below the roof.
Pitch 2: (5.9+). Need you ask? Step over to the corner below the roof, then undercling to the lip and crank over to the wider crack above. Easier climbing (5.8) leads to the rim.
Note: The entire climb can be done as a single pitch, but requires some clever work with runners to avoid rope drag over the roof section.
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