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Training Regimen: Will Speed Climbing Help?

Original Post
BBQ · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 554

For years I thought being a weekend warrior was enough. For the last decade I have managed to climb outdoors 3 to 4 days a week from roughly the beginning of March till the end of November. I have never had the desire to go to a gym to lift weights, do cardio, or pull plastic. I have now decided to hit the gym because I get to use one for free. I have read about all the core exercises that one can do at a gym with free weights and medicine balls. My question is this, I have recently begun to haunt a local crag that has steep, overhung limestone climbs with tiny holds and roof pulls. There is a lot of core strength needed to send these things. My question is, this crag also has 5 stellar climbs in the 5.10a - 5.11- region and a 5.11c and a 5.12a. Would getting at least 9 pitches-2 times per week- on this level of rock while concentrating as climbing as fast and efficient as I can get me through the glass ceiling I have reached and allow me to finally climb 5.12d and eventually 5.13a? I have traditionally been a slow climber and I have changed my mind to believe that sport climbers need speed, efficiency and endurance. Will speed climbing help? I have never really focused on it. P.S. Each climb is about 70 feet tall.

Brendan Blanchard · · Boulder, CO · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 590

If you're hoping to have a training regiment, you're going to need a lot more people. (See regimen vs. regiment)

I can't help myself sometimes. All kidding aside, you might be best served by not climbing any "pitches." I won't write a novel on the differences, but you might be better served by diversifying your climbing, and looking into either High-Low training programs, or adapting your climbing into a more periodized schedule rather than just focusing on pitches at any certain grade.

This isn't to say you need to start doing hangboarding, campusing and 4x4's, but you might see gains in your climbing if you alternated focus on strength and power, such as bouldering, then high volume low intensity workouts such as ARC climbing.

Sorry I'm not going into detail, but there's a lot of information out there that will probably explain it better than I can, I'm just throwing out some ideas.

reboot · · . · Joined Jul 2006 · Points: 125

No. I don't think there is a substitute for trying harder.

Superclimber · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 1,310

Kegel exercises may help;)

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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