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By Bill Dugan
From San Bernardino, CA
Dec 20, 2011

Hey training masters,

I suffered a tendon injury in mid-2011 and am a few months back on the rock. I'm nearly back to my previous onsight level, maybe two letter grades below, and would like to start training again. I've graduated from physical therapy and only have a bit of finger pain at this point. I'm ready, right? ....right?

I climb mostly trad at about 5.10b onsight max right now. I hit the gym twice during the week. I'd like to up it to three gym days and keep the training pretty light for the first few months of 2012. Maybe something like this:

Sat/Sun - Outdoor, trad

Tues - Gym:
- ARC/traverses
- bouldering 4x4s (V3 max)
- kettle bells, jump rope, pull-ups, push-ups, etc.

Wed - Gym:
- Route pyramid peaking at 11a

Thurs - Gym:
- ARC/traverses
- bouldering 4x4s (V3 max)
- kettle bells, jump rope, pull-ups, push-ups, etc.

Goals for 2012 are (#1 being most important):
1. Stay uninjured
2. 5.11 trad
3. 5.12 sport

I should add that as time goes on and the injury continues to heal I'd increase the intensity to work towards my goals. For now I'm purposely omitting hangboard training to accommodate the tendon healing. In your opinion is this a decent program to achieve #2 and #3? Any other suggestions?


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By Brendan N. (grayhghost)
From Salt Lake City, Utah
Dec 21, 2011

As it stands the program looks low intensity, which is good for recovery from an injury. You could use this as the first phase in a periodized schedule for peaking in the spring (ARC,Hyp, Recruit, PE). In its current form I doubt this is going to push you towards your performance goals. It looks more maintenance oriented than crushing-pain oriented.


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By Brian S
Dec 22, 2011

I would more precisely define the goals to make sure your actions are matching them.

What kind of uninjured?
all?
fingers?

What kind of 5.11 trad?
onsight?
redpoint?
a particular climb?
consistent at that grade?

What kind of 5.12 sport?
onsight?
redpoint?
a particular climb?
consistent at that grade?


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By slim
Administrator
Dec 22, 2011
tomato, tomotto, kill mike amato.

i think grayghost is on target here. your plan looks like a good first step, but after about 4 to 6 weeks, you will want to bump up the intensity if you want to stay on track towards your goals.


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By Chris Plesko
From Westminster, CO
Dec 22, 2011
OMG, I winz!!!

Like move ARC to Wed and make Tues hard bouldering.


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By R. Moran
From Moab , UT
Dec 22, 2011
REtro

If your idea of light training is doing bouldering 4x4' s with V3, it seams like climbing 5.12 sport should not really be that hard for you. Am I missing something? As for a finger injury I would wait and lay off it until you are totally healed. Unless you want to start the healing process all over again. Fingers are tough ones to get over. Keep the psyche, Train as light as possible if you are going to train at all. I would personally wait until the pain is completely gone before starting up anything. Good Luck


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