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Training plan for weekend warrior
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By TakeTakeTake
Jan 20, 2012

Hey all. I've recently re-entered the work force with a nice new M-F 9-5. With that I'm looking forward to putting together a training program in hopes of upping my grade a bit. I primarily climb trad and would like to be consistently redpointing 5.11 and a bit harder sport. I like Eric Horsts 4-3-2-1 plan but I think i'll modify it to be a 2-3-2-1 because I feel like I already have a good base.

So my question is in regards to those of us who are fortunate to be able to get outside to climb on the weekends, every weekend...even in the winter. If i'm out climbing single pitch trad, which often doesn't result in much of a burn, how do I structure my weekday training routine to accommodate or balance? By not giving up a Sat or Sun for a fingerboard routine or treadwall sesh am I looking at a diminished return from my training program?


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By Dylan Weldin
From Austin, Texas
Jan 20, 2012
Summit of my first tower, the Rectory via Fine Jade

It sounds like you should just go climbing in addition to your hangboard/ "treadwall sesh". If an afternoon of single pitch cragging leaves you looking for more of a workout, then do yourself a favor and do more of a workout.

Oftentimes I'll end a day of cragging on a pumpy route and run laps on it to failure. It looks like Monday and Wednesday should be your rest days, Saturday and Sunday you go cragging and supplement a lack of a burn with a dose of hangboard, then you hangboard for glory Tuesday and Thursday.


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