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training plan critique - 5 weeks with only a hangboard before a trip

Original Post
softmoo · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2014 · Points: 0

Hi training forum,

1. Will you critique my rock prodigy based training plan (see below)?

My issue is 5 weeks of east coast work travel in August without weekday access to a climbing gym. During the work week I will only have a metolious simulator (mounted to a blank slate slim) and a 24hr fitness style gym. However, during the weekend I can get in 1 day at a climbing gym in another city.

2. What are good exercises to do when all you have access to is a metolious simulator hangboard and possibly free weights?

  • The RCTM mentions a combined HB and campus board maintenance workout, but I wont have a campus board.

Training plan Summary -
Link to excel file

Season 2 - click for screen shot
  • CW 20-23 base-fitness
  • CW 23-25 HYP
  • CW 26-27 Power
  • CW 28-30 PE
  • CW 31-35 HB & free weights maintenance work outs during work-travel
  • CW 35/36 - 4-5 day trip to Red River Gorge, KY during labor day

Season 3 - click for screen shot
  • 17 wk training cycle peaking during Xmas holidays.
  • 2-3 week climbing trip during peak

Stats: sport rp 5.12c / V6

Thank you!
Best,JM
Kerwin Loukusa · · PNW · Joined Aug 2013 · Points: 135

Please post a screen shot of your training plan, some people dont have excel.

softmoo · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2014 · Points: 0

Good idea kerwinl,

Season 2



Season 3
5.samadhi Süñyātá · · asheville · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 40

Just use it a lot and get stronger progressively on it. Wow at the attention to detail though (spreadsheet???)

Just get stronger on it then get on actual rock when you have a chance and onsight a ton of shit for a month and your fitness will go up enough to send shit.

I think you are DRASTICALLY overcomplicating it :/

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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