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Training for Offwidths/Chimneys in North Carolina
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By Scott O
From California
Feb 28, 2013
Batman Pinnacle
I'm headed to Yosemite soon and want to get some practice in. Other than that pitch high on Glass Menagerie, any ideas or suggestions?

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By Brian Hudson
From Lenoir, NC
Feb 28, 2013
Valor Over Discretion (5.8), RRG
The only thing I've done like that is P2 of Fruit Loops at Rumbling Bald. But it's a pretty wide slot.

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By Brian Abram
From Columbia, SC
Feb 28, 2013
Brian Abram, leading pitch 2 of Dinkus Dog on the ...
mountainproject.com/v/the-sper...
mountainproject.com/v/caterpil...
mountainproject.com/v/capt-cru...
mountainproject.com/v/the-open...

All of those have at least some wide crack. FWIW, if you pull on gear on Open Book through the opening crux, the rest of the route goes at about .10a

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By rock_fencer
From Columbia, SC
Feb 28, 2013
Myself placing a a blue/yellow offset MC to protec...
there is an offwidth at the glass that is just around the corner from B-52...dont remember what it is called and i havent climbed it. Dum Dee Dum Dum may be an all out good route to try. P1 is good crack with a wide flared section, and P2 has a wideish section in it. Pepper Poop Tube on the Hidden wall of LGO is a legit offwidth/chimeny...i dont have gear for it so havent climbed it.

There is a wide corner on the north side of cedar rock going up under a big roof.

Jeep's Chimney at Hawksbill. Crackerjack (or something like that) at Table Rock NC has a chimney in it P2.

There are a number at the bald including Captain crunch on the back side of cereal buttress as well as a few others i've seen. Kinda have to look through the guidebook and go explore. Bald would be your best bet for concentration i think this time of year. Walk the cliff line and climb anything wide!

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By Trav W.
Feb 28, 2013
If you are looking for wide stuff, check out Kosmonauts and Kennedy Space Port at Test pilots. I also recommend Captain Crunch. It has a variety of crack styles that will keep you thinking for the entire route. Also the first pitch of Built to Tilt has a nice chimney in it.

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By Br'er Rabbit
From The Briar Patch
Feb 28, 2013
'Bred en bawn in a brier-patch, Brer Fox--bred en ...
Hypocrite's Corner on the Dillard Canyon side of LAurel Knob.
Wide crack galore and many options after the first pitch.
All steep, Yosemite-style splitter cracks.
Rare for that part of NC.

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By sanz
From Raleigh, NC
Feb 28, 2013
One of my first trad climbs, Ooga Chocka at Crowde...
Lots of good suggestions so far. I can give +1 from experience or hearsay on just about all of them.

The only specifics I can think to add are Breaking Rocks at Moore's (although you won't wanna climb that this time of year) and The Womb at the Glass, which is mostly hand and finger crack but has a wild chimney exit move.

I think in general, for emulating Yosemite in NC, the north face of the Glass is your best bet.

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By Alex Washburne
Feb 28, 2013
I eat crack for breakfast.


Build one of these guys - adjustable roof crack, from hands to OW. It has worked wonders for me.

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By TomCaldwell
From Clemson, S.C.
Feb 28, 2013
Me on One Pitch Wonder at Whitesides.  Photo credi...
There are a lot of great cracks at another cliff near the Bald, but it has access issues right now. Most of the good roped lines were covered, but check out Silver Platter in the boulder field below the Cereal Wall. Good V2 that has a few arm bars and a lot of heel-toe camming. Caterpillar at Crowder's looks good, but I have never done it. The Seal has a short squeeze section. The Odyssey has a short off-width section as well. Fat Dog is super easy thigh jamming.

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By Scott O
From California
Feb 28, 2013
Batman Pinnacle
Thanks guys.

Unfortunately I can't see the image on the training machine.

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By rock_fencer
From Columbia, SC
Feb 28, 2013
Myself placing a a blue/yellow offset MC to protec...
It's a crack hang board with adjustable sizes

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By nbrown
From western NC
Feb 28, 2013
Top of Shortoff with the Bonsai
Hey Scott, if you're coming from the triangle I'd recommend going to the new and climbing offwidth cracks there. Much better training in my opinion, and probably as close as a lot of stuff in WNC.

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By Mark O'Neal
From Nicholson, GA
Feb 28, 2013
1st trad lead - Northern Pillar at the Gunks
TomCaldwell wrote:
Caterpillar at Crowder's looks good, but I have never done it.


Caterpillar is good. A bit more awkward than Fruit Loops, but similar.

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By Scott O
From California
Mar 5, 2013
Batman Pinnacle
nbrown wrote:
Hey Scott, if you're coming from the triangle I'd recommend going to the new and climbing offwidth cracks there. Much better training in my opinion, and probably as close as a lot of stuff in WNC.


Good to know, thanks. I'll check it out. I'm in Chapel Hill.

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