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Training Day 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 3 pitches, 250'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Richard Wright, Mark Tarrant, Spring 2004
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,580
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on Jun 3, 2004

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Eric making the crux move on the 1st pitch of Trai...

Description 

Training Day is a three pitch route that starts off a block just right of Smeagol's Way and fires up to the clean system of faces, corners, and an arete at 180 feet. It was named for Nick Walker (if you know Nick, then you know one of the hardest training men around). TD turned out to be an unexpected surprise in as much as it came in a full number grade easier on the sharp end than I had imagined while running it on jugs.

P1, 5.11b, 85 feet. P1 starts off the block on a large adherent plate with two closely spaced bolts. These had been placed for the purpose of running the rope off the fall line, which now seems irrelevant, but I left the bolts rather than leaving a hole. Fire up to a black section of rock, with a seam and the crux. Step right to gain the dihedral. Easy moves up the dihedral will drop you at the first three bolt belay station. To clip the anchors, keep the hands in the corner until you can stand easily on a square cut block. Moving left too early will be much more difficult. Two stars for P1.

P2, 5.10b, 80 feet. P2 continues in the dihedral to a clean plate at 30 feet. A right hand in the crack drops a number grade off the face. Continue for a short space on some prickly rock and finish up on a jug haul. Pulling on to the belay ledge may the crux! One star for P2.

P3, 5.10b/c, 75 feet. P3 starts in the corner at the three bolt belay station at 180 feet and pulls around onto the classic sharp arete, finishing on a short face near the top of the crag. There is no rap station at the top, just a two bolt belay station. If you finish on the arete, then walk off to the North. Three stars for P3 which has classic moves on perfect granite. Like everything else on Training Day, P3 came in a full number grade easier on the sharp end than imagined from jugs. The transition point from the corner to the arete is made off one of the most unusual holds, a deep vertical pocket that will take three fingers, pretty cool. A bail out bolt was placed in the face at the top in case it is necessary to get to the rap station on the left.

Protection 

Bring 12-14 draws, something for each belay station, and a 60 meter cord. There are three bolt belay stations at the top of P1 and P2. There is a double bolt belay at the top of P3 but no rap station.


Photos of Training Day Slideshow Add Photo
Mark starting up the clean granite corner of Training Day, P1.
Mark starting up the clean granite corner of Train...
The Miner's Delight sector showing existing routes. 2, Miner's Delight; 3, Smeagol; 4, Strike It Rich
BETA PHOTO: The Miner's Delight sector showing existing routes...
Rapping down the dihedral on TD, P1.
Rapping down the dihedral on TD, P1.
Mark scoping for new possibilities above the crux on TD, P1.
Mark scoping for new possibilities above the crux ...
First pitch "Training Day", after the crux, Diana Rogers. <br />Fun pitch, 5.11a/b onsight.
First pitch "Training Day", after the cr...

Comments on Training Day Add Comment
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By Richard M. Wright
From: Lakewood, CO
Jun 8, 2004
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Beta note on P2. Pull the small roof at two thirds height on the right. The bolt was placed left of the roof in order to keep the rope from dragging across the sharp edge of the roof. Big jugs lie just right. What worked most simply was to stretch up for the clip off big holds on the roof, make a long reach right, and stem up over the roof - still from the right. The rest is pretty obvious.
By Matt Chan
From: Boulder
Jun 23, 2004
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Whoa! Fun route, but boy is it loose up there. I'm sure, after a little traffic, it'll clean up quite nicely, but at the moment...

Crux on P1 is a slightly overhung move to surmount a small roof about 40' up. Position yourself under the roof on jugs, reach up to the thin sidepull with your left, just a bit higher is another sidepull/jam for your right, then it eases off on good holds.

The bolts are abundant and the climbing is fun. Once the route sees more traffic, it will be a two (+) star route. It might be a good idea to run doubles, as many of the edges are very sharp (especially on P2). This area has some potential for some great routes - even some gear routes (wink wink). If in the area, it is most certainly worth taking a peek.
By Richard M. Wright
From: Lakewood, CO
Jun 23, 2004
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Re: MC comment. My own run through TD in the last couple of weeks did not turn up anything loose. There can be some small friable surface flakes that might still come off. We cleaned what seemed reasonable and was still on the route as we imagined it, but it is always possible to wander a bit off the line as we climbed it. Matt is right, traffic helps, and it's hard to imagine a place like Eldo (for example) still in its pristine state, but in a place that has never seen human hands until just now one does need to keep aware of the situation. If there is something that someone else finds that looks dubious or dangerous, just let us know and we'll reef it off. We'll even bring the Fuller Brush Man along.
By Matt Chan
From: Boulder
Jun 24, 2004
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Yeah, I agree that the rock was cleaned quite well. Still, we broke off more than one baseball sized portion of rock (one in the "dihedral" on P1 and one on the crux of P2) that appeared to be solid. Like I said in my previous comment, this will clean up with time and will certainly turn out to be a great route. Nice work Richard and Mark!

MC
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jul 19, 2004
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

At present, I feel that the grade is 11a. Those with thin fingers (such as myself) will have to put in extra effort at the crux(11a, 100') black seam as the locks are a little loose. The second pitch (10a, 100') is seaping (wet) even a day after rain when the cliff is otherwise dry. I only had to grab a wet hold once, but it was still annerving to have the water dripping onto the climber and belay for the second pitch.The third pitch (10a, 70') is certainly a fun pitch and certainly a 2-star pitch, and the best on the route. Too bad it's not longer!

I was on the fence for the discussion of how many stars to give it. I considered my own experience, but with time (and drier conditions) I fully expect the climb to be a better route, as it cleans up. Grit was still falling from the climb, but no chunks to speak of. No more hard cleaning seems necessary- a little traffic will finish the job.
By orin salah
Jul 7, 2006
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Only 2 stars??

I thought this was a great route. As long as you are not expecting the typical sport crag bolt up, you will not be disappointed. I have not done the standard finish, but the "Riders of Rohan" pitch is immaculate.
By Matt Chan
From: Boulder
Aug 21, 2006
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

This weekend, I pulled off the jug you reach that finishes off the crux (P1). The 15lb stone went crashing down the hill, leaving an even bigger jug slightly lower. This may make the crux easier to pull through. Wear a helmet.
By Rich Farnham
Aug 27, 2011
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c

I found the first pitch to be a tough warm-up. The crux is short, but it is pretty steep and I found it hard to decipher. Felt 11b on the onsight attempt -- maybe easier once you know what to do, since it's so short.

Great route though. The third pitch was good, but I enjoyed the Rohan Face more. If you do the final pitch of Training Day first, and use the "bailout bolt" to go left to the rap anchor at the top of Rohan Face, you can lower back to the belay with your partner. Then once they clean the pitch (it wanders enough that I don't think you both want to lead it), you can both do Rohan Face before rapping.