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Training a non-climbing belayer?

Original Post
Eric LaRoche · · West Swanzey, NH · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 25

I know some people have non-climbing belayers. My question is how successful have people been in training a belayer who doesn't climb?

I've recently moved back to my hometown in NH so I live a lot closer to my dad. He doesn't really have an interest in actually climbing but he likes hiking and being outdoors. He'd like to go with me and belay which is cool with me because my dad's awesome. There's plenty of sport climbing here so I don't need a second. He's top rope belayed at the gym but that's it. Gym's being the way they are I can't exactly teach him to lead belay at the gym since they don't like that very much.

Any ideas or experiences?

Aleks Zebastian · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 175

You are going to be doing the dying!

FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 276

I think it could work just fine. And who knows, he might want to try it.

But I see no real difference between teaching a climber to belay or a non-climber. The new climber knows nothing just like someone who doesn't want to climb.

Eric LaRoche · · West Swanzey, NH · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 25
FrankPS wrote:I think it could work just fine. And who knows, he might want to try it. But I see no real difference between teaching a climber to belay or a non-climber. The new climber knows nothing just like someone who doesn't want to climb.
I'm kinda thinking the same thing. :-)
bearbreeder · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 3,065

The problem with a non-climbing/leading belayer is that they havent been on the sharp end and may not recognize certain situations

A good belayer does more than just hold the rope ... They also warn the climber of potential hazards, use their best judgement on what kind of catch to give, etc ...

Anybody who is trained properly can hold the rope

But it usually takes someone who leads and climbs to have the experience to be a good belayer

;)

Jon H · · PC, UT · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 118

The best practical way to train a belayer (especially a non climbing belayer) is to go out in a group of 3. One person is leading, one person is belaying, and the "student" is observing. It is the belayer's responsibility to talk through all his own physical actions, explaining what he is doing, why he is doing it, what he is thinking about, what precautions is he taking, what scenarios does he see developing and if they develop, how they can be mitigated, etc.

Much of belaying is intuitive, and it only comes with lots of practice and experience. The non-climber will never have that experience, so it will be your responsibility to clearly explain all sorts of things you might never need to normally explain.

evan h · · Longmont, CO · Joined Oct 2012 · Points: 360

Assuming you get that whole safety thing dialed, this sounds like a dream come true!

FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 276
bearbreeder wrote:The problem with a non-climbing/leading belayer is that they havent been on the sharp end and may not recognize certain situations
It's my experience that people lead belay before they lead climb.

Edit: The OP didn't ask "what's the best belayer possible?" Yes, your dad can be taught to lead belay you.
bearbreeder · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 3,065
FrankPS wrote: It's my experience that people lead belay before they lead climb. Edit: The OP didn't ask "what's the best belayer possible?" Yes, your dad can be taught to lead belay you.
Actually at the gyms here folks learn and get tested on both at the same time

Whenever possible id recommend an experienced belayer who also leads

On climbs where falling is a very real possiblity you want the best belayer possible to catch yr mistakes and possibly save yr azz

Otherwise just dont fall and assume yr soloing

;)
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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