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This crag is actually geologically more interesting than it is for climbing. The rock is pocketed in places, but the pockets are extraordinarily formed and relatively sharp. Also, there are some crystals in the rock, as well as chickenheads! Nonetheless, the limestone is very compact and many routes climb features rather than pockets. It gets sun in the after noon, which makes it really nice for cooler days and enjoying sunsets.
Drive to Heiligenstadt. Assuming you aproached from Ebermannstadt, about 200m after entering Heiligenstadt head right uphill, following signs to the "Pavillon". Drive to and park at the Pavillon, which is a small wood building. Follow the trail down towards Heiligenstadt to reach the climbing, which is directly below the pavillion.
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Featured Route For Traindorfer Wand
Alter Weg 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Europe : Germany : ... : Traindorfer Wand
This is a very nice crack climb which is hard to come by in the Frankenjura. It's allows you to use/practice some crack climbing technique, without absolutely requiring it (ie. there are some other holds around). Starts left around the corner and follows the ledge to the right. From there, head straight up to the crack and follow it past 6 bolts....[more] Browse More Classics in International
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