BETA PHOTO: Klein aber fein in red and Auch nicht schlecht in ...
This crag is actually geologically more interesting than it is for climbing. The rock is pocketed in places, but the pockets are extraordinarily formed and relatively sharp. Also, there are some crystals in the rock, as well as chickenheads! Nonetheless, the limestone is very compact and many routes climb features rather than pockets. It gets sun in the after noon, which makes it really nice for cooler days and enjoying sunsets.
The approach is 2 minutes, so one would expect it to be crowded here. When I was there there was nobody else there, and I don't really think this place actually does get crowded. The rock is slightly polished on some routes, but I don't think it's really from the climbers. Rather, the rock is naturally closer to marble - it has naturally low friction.
There are two sections, the left one which is short and located directly below the pavillion, and the right one which is much taller and has more difficult routes.
Drive to Heiligenstadt. Assuming you aproached from Ebermannstadt, about 200m after entering Heiligenstadt head right uphill, following signs to the "Pavillon". Drive to and park at the Pavillon, which is a small wood building. Follow the trail down towards Heiligenstadt to reach the climbing, which is directly below the pavillion.
Climbing Season For the Frankenjura area.
Weather station 16.8 miles from here
10 Total Routes
['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',4],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]
Featured Route For Traindorfer Wand
Alter Weg 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Europe
: ... : Traindorfer Wand
This is a very nice crack climb which is hard to come by in the Frankenjura. It's allows you to use/practice some crack climbing technique, without absolutely requiring it (ie. there are some other holds around). Starts left around the corner and follows the ledge to the right. From there, head straight up to the crack and follow it past 6 bolts....[more] Browse More Classics in International
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BETA PHOTO: Some of the routes on the larger wall. From left t...