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Gorge Lakes
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Train Tracks to the Top 

Train Tracks to the Top 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 150', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Paul Pertile
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 174
Submitted By: Paully on Jul 15, 2009
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BETA PHOTO: Gorge Lakes Spire, Train Tracks to the Top goes up...

Description 

Scramble up Gorge Lakes Spire to the gully below the notch between the summits. Stay left and avoid the loose chute, but work your way up along the chute. Rope up for a 30ft 5.7ish climb up to the tree and ledges above. Here's where there's some route potential. Go right around the corner and take the obvious dihedral with large left hand crack on it, belay from the comfortable ledge. The start is the crux, until you stem into the arm-jam crack. The fun begins when you get to the second crack where you can arm-jam the left crack and handjam the right crack as you stem or foot-jam your way up (5.7). Fun fun alpine crack! I had a smile on my face the whole time. This pitch is 100ft. Walk off the back of the spire and scramble your way down a gully south of the spire.


Protection 

takes plenty of gear all the way up to #3 C4, need small pro for the starting moves. Sling the large boulder at top to belay, DON'T USE THE BOULDER NEAR THE EDGE IT IS LARGE AND LOOSE!



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