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Sunset South
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Afternoon Delight T 
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Dodge City T 
Jenga Direct T 
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Pigs in Space T 
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Train Time T 
Train Time Direct T 
Walk in the Park T 
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Train Time 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Rich Gottlieb, Forrest Gardner 1980
Page Views: 1,299
Submitted By: 426 on Apr 16, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (23)
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Description 

Climb a steep face to a right-arching shallow corner. Follow the arch to its end, then move right to more thin face climbing and fire for the top. Very fun!


Location 

Scramble up to the Celebrity Flake ledge and look for thin crack systems leading to an obvious right-leaning corner; starts about 10' right of Walk in the Park.


Protection 

Standard "Sunset" rack...heavy on the thin stuff. A small arsenal of Aliens does the job great. Shares bolted anchors with Walk in the Park.



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By saxfiend
Administrator
From: Decatur, GA
Jul 5, 2008
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

This is an excellent route, well deserving of the three stars in the Dixie Cragger. Thin and balancy in places, but it's all there when you really need it.

By cshuey77
From: Asheviile,nc
May 27, 2010
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

don't forget to place some gear on the jug haul to the top, as you will find there is one move left.

By highneed
Aug 20, 2012
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Excellent route, cool moves, several distinct sections, textbook perfect gear. This one should be on everyone's list.