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Train hard or go easy 1 week before RNWF (Half Dome) climb?

Original Post
The Blueprint Part Dank · · FEMA Region VIII · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 460

Howdy, so, I'm hoping on a flight from Denver to SFO next Friday to meet a my buddy and head towards the valley. We're going to be doing the RNWF in a day (from the base, not the valley FWIW). I've been training for the last couple of months for the trip, trying to get as much mileage on granite as possible in preparation. This weekend will be my last shot at hard training days prior to the trip. But I'm wandering if that's the best idea, or if I would be better suited by taking it easy so I'm well rested for the climb. What are ya'll's thoughts on the matter?

PS: some background on me. I'm 25, so youth is somewhat in my favor, I climb outdoors at least 2x's a week year round even if I'm not in a "training phase" and I'm also fairly diligent with using my foam roller and stretching, after a typical weekend of climbing I'm generally sore to one degree or another for 2 days, then fully recovered by the next weekend (this would be in a week with no climbing gym visits). Hopefully that helps provide some context for my question.

Bill M · · Fort Collins, CO · Joined Jun 2010 · Points: 317

I would say take it easy.

Jack V · · Reno, NV · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 10
Bill M wrote:I would say take it easy.
+1
ROC · · Denver, CO · Joined Feb 2003 · Points: 155

Did this exact trip 2 years ago. Rest up. It will do you more good than training hard to the bitter end. Wish I would have rested more prior.

Have a great trip!

The Blueprint Part Dank · · FEMA Region VIII · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 460

I was thinking along those lines, probably spend a couple hours further dialing in my French-free shenanigans one day and maybe soloing the first the next. Just keep the mind and body moving.

Any differing opinions?

DWF 3 · · Boulder, CO · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 186

I always have this problem before a hard climb. Sometimes I rest and wish I hadn't and some times I train hard and wish I had rested. I think what works for me is to not differ from my regular schedule. I usually climb hard/train Monday, Wednesday, Friday and climb trad near my limit on the weekends. If I differ from that I feel like my trad suffers.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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