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Train for Alaskan climbing in CO
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By LawHous
From Colorado Springs, CO
Jun 5, 2013
Post climb celebration drinks with a sweet line in...
There is a good chance I'll be moving to Alaska next year to do some climbing for three months. I live in Colorado Springs and I'm trying to start training now. Anybody know of some good routes (Alpine rock, snow colouirs, mixed/ice colouirs) that might be good simulators of Alaskan climbing in CO. Obviously nothing in CO can simulate the treacherous Alaskan weather but I was thinking longer, hard colouirs might be a start. Any ideas would be great, thanks!

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By jmeizis
From Colorado Springs, CO
Jun 5, 2013
The Beginning of Mr. Clean (5.8) at the Barkeater ...
I have a friend who just left for Alaska to climb the Father & Sons wall on Denali. He trained up on The Peak which does have a lot of alpine terrain that is a good training ground. The Incline is good cardio. There are lots of mixed climbs, first ascents, and ice and snow couloirs to be had. Total Abandon is actually thin but in right now if you want some ice climbing training. The road is the crux though. There is lots of accessible couloirs, the Three Pigs, Y Couloir, the south bowl with lots of moderate alpine terrain. Part of what makes The Peak good training is there is lots of undocumented climbing up there. It requires good macro and micro route finding skills. It's also at altitude which is great if you're going for bigger mountains.

It sounds like his buddy trained up in RMNP. Guess I'll have to see how things went for them when they get back later this month.

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By Mark D.
From Santa Fe
Jun 5, 2013
Head up to the Solitude Lake area in RMNP. It is very AK looking right now. The Hourglass is in and McHenry's east face looks spectacular. Powell has ice smears all over it.

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By Martin le Roux
From Superior, CO
Jun 5, 2013
Stairway to Heaven
LawHous wrote:
Obviously nothing in CO can simulate the treacherous Alaskan weather


IMHO a winter ascent of a CO 14er can do a pretty job of simulating (springtime) Alaskan weather, if you pick the right (i.e. wrong) conditions.

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By David Hertel
From Sitka
Nov 17, 2013
Climbing a coulior of steep snow on the First Asce...
LawHous wrote:
There is a good chance I'll be moving to Alaska next year to do some climbing for three months. I live in Colorado Springs and I'm trying to start training now. Anybody know of some good routes (Alpine rock, snow colouirs, mixed/ice colouirs) that might be good simulators of Alaskan climbing in CO. Obviously nothing in CO can simulate the treacherous Alaskan weather but I was thinking longer, hard colouirs might be a start. Any ideas would be great, thanks!


Hey man, I live in Alaska but will be guiding in Utah until xmas. I am in the springs right now and am looking to get on Total Abandon tomorrow. If nothing else, its good training for mixed lines in the Alaskan alpine. Let me know asap since I leave for Utah on Tuesday
David
nine oh 7, seven 3 eight, 2 9 five one

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