|Type:||Sport, 1 pitch, 100'|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]|
|FA:||Dave Dangle, Richard Aschert, 2004|
|Submitted By:||Edward Jenner on May 16, 2004|
|Comments on Trailer Park Logic||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Mike Anderson
From: Dayton, OH
Mar 21, 2005
|I thought that the only thing this route had going for it was its length. It's sorta cool to climb to the top of the wall, but if that's what you are after, I think there are better choices. the first, 5.10 pitch was pretty chossy, and not really enjoyable moves. The upper pitch is more interesting, but contrived. I suppose if you stick to the arete, it could be considered 5.11, but it's very easy to climb a few feet to the right, on huge holds.|
By Aeon Aki
Apr 9, 2012
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
P1 is "tradesque" with many crack climbing options, good stemming, and some questionable rock quality. I found the crux of the route to be on P1.
P2 can easily be linked into P1 and offers much better rock quality and excellent position. You can take it all the way to the top and look out across all of the Shelf Road area. Staying just right of the bolt line will keep the climbing at easy 5.10 though the sequences are cryptic as this one doesn't get much traffic.