Type: |
Sport, 160 ft (48 m)
Fixed Hardware
(14) |
FA: | Larry Harris |
Page Views: | 2,752 total · 20/month |
Shared By: | Ken Cangi on Jan 7, 2013 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted
Details
Update: as of 6/7/23 per Mike McHugh, ECSP: all closures have been lifted within Eldorado Canyon State Park, including Continental Crag.
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Description
Per EJM: this line is approximately 140 feet in length. With rope stretch, an 80 meter rope will just get you to the ground if your belayer steps into the starting alcove. TIE A KNOT.
Once established on the face, after the 2nd bolt, this route is incredibly sustained. I thought there were two distinct cruxes- a 12c section getting from bolts 3 to 4, and a 12b section just past the 11th bolt. While there are a few areas of respite in which to shake out your calves, the majority of the climbing never falls much below 11+/12-.
This is a superb route, has great stone, is super sustained for 140', and strong toes and calves would be a huge asset.
Once established on the face, after the 2nd bolt, this route is incredibly sustained. I thought there were two distinct cruxes- a 12c section getting from bolts 3 to 4, and a 12b section just past the 11th bolt. While there are a few areas of respite in which to shake out your calves, the majority of the climbing never falls much below 11+/12-.
This is a superb route, has great stone, is super sustained for 140', and strong toes and calves would be a huge asset.
Location
Per EJM: this is located on the west face of Fin 3, just right of the beautiful dihedral of V3.
This is between V3 and Moonlight Drive.
This is between V3 and Moonlight Drive.
Protection
This is protected by 12 bolts. There are 2 anchor bolts.
Per EJM: there are 13 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. A #3 Camalot with a runner placed between bolts 1&2 is wise. If you were to slip or botch clipping the 2nd bolt, you'd certainly hit the ground from 30+ feet.
Per EJM: there are 13 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. A #3 Camalot with a runner placed between bolts 1&2 is wise. If you were to slip or botch clipping the 2nd bolt, you'd certainly hit the ground from 30+ feet.
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