This route climbs the crack on the left side of the upper cliff. Starts with a finger crack going through an overlap about 20 ft up. This is a really a good lead and worth doing. A blue tri cam works to protect the flaring pod like section before the thin seam part, which is the crux. You can get a micro wire somewhere in the seam before you totally commit to the thin slab move. The rest of the route is around 5.7. Good gear the whole way. Easy to set up for t.r. off trees.
Upper cliff. walk off to right, or rappel. Rap slings are gone. Beware! 60 m rope barely gets you down.
normal rack, blue? tri cam helpfull at flare.
Dec 11, 2012
Fun route, pulling the first bulge can be a little tricky. The crux is fun and you have to commit. Once the crack opens back up it is easier all the way to the top.
Walk off to the right down through a gully or rappel station directly to the left. (not sure on its condition now)
|By Robert Hall|
Oct 28, 2013
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c R
The "thin wire" in the thin crack (crux) only fits because the placement is an old pin scar. It isn't much good. A 'brassy' works best. If you fall at the crux on lead, or a bit above, and the nut pulls (and it probably will) with rope stretch and rope slack you'll probably get pretty banged up at the overhang, hence I give this climb an "R".