Trail Magic 5.8+
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Trail Magic
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Description This route climbs the crack on the left side of the upper cliff. Starts with a finger crack going through an overlap about 20 ft up. This is a really a good lead and worth doing. A blue tri cam works to protect the flaring pod like section before the thin seam part, which is the crux. You can get a micro wire somewhere in the seam before you totally commit to the thin slab move. The rest of the route is around 5.7. Good gear the whole way. Easy to set up for t.r. off trees.
Location Upper cliff. walk off to right, or rappel. Rap slings are gone. Beware! 60 m rope barely gets you down.
Protection normal rack, blue? tri cam helpfull at flare.
By A.wilk Dec 11, 2012
| Fun route, pulling the first bulge can be a little tricky. The crux is fun and you have to commit. Once the crack opens back up it is easier all the way to the top. Walk off to the right down through a gully or rappel station directly to the left. (not sure on its condition now) |
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