P1: Slab up a full rope length, cutting hard left at the bowl near half way (extend your gear with several slings), passing some cruxy smears and a couple of bolts to a double bolt anchor at the base of a steep face right of a right facing dihedral. (5.9+)
P2: Climb right off of the belay and fire up over a few bolts to a single bolt belay with gear. (5.11a)
P3: Trend hard right and follow the path of least resistance up the juggy but poorly protected face. When in doubt, go right. Pass a bolt and a fixed pin to a two bolt anchor. (5.8) Linking pitches two and three is possible with a 70m cord and some long runners.
P4: Continue up the face past some gear to the ledge left of the Crescent Pitch on the OR. Cut hard left to the base of the obvious crux pitch and build a gear belay where the bolted belay once was. (5.8)
P5: Pull the short left facing corner feature to gain a ledge and then a bolt, continue straight up over steeper but juggy terrain, passing more fixed gear, then cut left and engage the thin crux. After the crux, carefully climb the unprotected face above to a two bolt anchor. (5.11c)
P6: Walk right along the ledge until you can head up over fixed gear to a stance and belay. (5.9+)
P7: Beginning at a short right facing dihedral, go straight up past some juggy features and a couple of bolts to the base of a tree ledge and belay. (5.10a)
P8: Thrash through the bushes to the base of the rock and climb the featured slab to the top of the route, trending a bit right near the end. Belay below the rail. (5.8)
Recommended Alternative: At the base of pitch 6, leave the belay to the left and climb straight up over the fairly well protected faced (5.9) and link this with pitch 7 (5.10a) for a much more direct and highly enjoyable alternate.
Located on the "right" end of the Southeast face, the first pitch begins at the base of a slab with a low bolt and an overlap at around 50 feet before you reach the Original Route. This route is currently subject to seasonal falcon closures, so please check the kiosk at the trail head for restrictions (strictly enforced).
Take a single rack through #2 C4 with an optional #3, a few smaller brassies, some tricams, half a dozen draws, and some long slings.
While the cruxes can be french freed, there is some runout moderate terrain.
From: western NC
Oct 20, 2010
Did this route again yesterday for the first time in quite a few years and have a couple comments. First off, there has been 1 original bolt removed since the fiasco several years back (pitch 3). Also, the "belay bolt" at the top of pitch 2 is worked/mank. There is gear right next to it... why not have a 2 bolt belay at the next bolt where there is a ledge, and remove the unnecessary one?? It appeared that maybe this was what Dennis tried to do? Someone should contact Mark about this, as it is just silly to belay from a bad bolt when there is a ledge just 30' higher.
One last thing... the direct finish is excellent! I'd forgotten how much fun it was. Just be careful with the somewhat delicate flake right off of the belay.
From: Red River Gorge
Oct 21, 2010
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a R
That flake gave me the heeby jeebies
|By Jeff Mekolites|
From: HOTlanta, GA
May 25, 2011
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII E4 6a R
We managed to do this in 6 pitches with double 60 m ropes. Also at the top of pitch 2, I found a two bolt belay (I went mostly straight up from the crux on that pitch...passing a couple (?) of bolts and an odd/stray new bolt (maybe Dennis's) out right). Then straight up from there (passing one more bolt, some gear) puts you below/slightly left of the 11c pitch.
From: Clemson, SC
Jun 6, 2011
From where p3 traverses extremely far to the right to climb hollow flakes and dirty rock, the best thing to do is continue straight above the bolt, climbing the flared crack that takes good tricams for pro. Continue up to belay from medium cams in a horizontal below a 2 foot roof. On the next pitch, you can climb around the left side of the roof then trend up and right to the base of the crux pitch. The bolts to your left are part of route doctors. This variation is way better than the climbing on the original p3-p4 and has probably just as good if not better pro. Link p2 all the way to the belay in that horizontal for a nice direct 190 foot pitch
|By Derek DeBruin|
Mar 18, 2013
I disagree about the .10a crux with a 60 foot fall. There is indeed a "hard" move above the last bolt on the crux pitch, but it's no more than 5.8 or 5.9. It's a high-step/mantle depending on how you do it and it's only about 12 feet above the last bolt, maybe less than that. Calling it .10a with 60 foot fall potential is a bit alarmist.
Jul 5, 2013
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a R
Awesome line that would probably see a lot more traffic if it weren't for Whiteside's reputation and the mank bolts. If the first pitch runouts don't bother you, the rest of the route shouldn't be a problem. It's too bad such a good line has been left to deteriorate (and has 3 chopped bolts at the crux pitch belay).
|By michael sticher|
Oct 14, 2013
After the bolted crux on p2 I headed up and right continuously until I found 2 bolts without rings. I was far left of the OR crux pitch. regardless, a licheny pitch up and left took me to the piton below crux pitch. Also, I did the recommended direct finish; I havent done the other finish but this one was awesome steep juggy climbing w/ good pro