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 ADVANCED
Rapunzel's Tower
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L to R R to L Alpha
Golden Stair, The T 
Happily Ever After T,TR 
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Let Down Your Hair TR 
Traditional Fairytale T 

Traditional Fairytale 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a [details]
FA: Jon Ruland, Jen Ivey, Eric Ivey
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 842
Submitted By: Boodge Nomchompski on Feb 1, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Jen on the second ascent.

Description 

This is the obvious crack running up the narrow south face of the tower. It finishes under the big roof at a set of rap anchors. This would be a good first trad lead for new climbers.

Location 

Southernmost point of the tower.

Protection 

Gear to 3 inches. Note, gear at the start is tricky, but a 3" cam with a long runner or a slung chickenhead will tame the opening moves, even if it comes off as you pass it. Should get you safely established into the crack.


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By Jon Ruland
From: Tucson, AZ
Feb 1, 2010
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

the crack system here is really cool. as usual, too bad it isn't longer.
By Alex McIntyre
From: Tucson, AZ
Feb 12, 2011
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

I walked up here today (stopped by on my way to running at Windy Point) and I found there was some tat (slung in the bad "American Triangle" method) hanging from the anchors. I found this odd as the hangars are definitely Metolius rap hangars and don't need webbing to rap from. Definitely an eyesore as it is black webbing that stands out against the rock.

Also, the roof appears to have some holds; has anyone attempted to climb it? Or is it too chossy?
By Alex McIntyre
From: Tucson, AZ
Feb 24, 2011
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

Did this today as my first trad lead and it was really fun! I thought it would be crappy because it is only 5.5 but it turned out to be quite fun. A #3 Camalot C4 works great to protect the move into the crack.
By Jon Ruland
From: Tucson, AZ
Sep 14, 2011
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

i had been considering the roof as i had been eying the holds you mentioned. it would be a nice 10-foot or so traverse with your body pretty much horizontal. in the end i decided against putting in the work to bolt it, but i may reconsider it this season if the mood strikes me. or someone else can give it a shot. ;)
By Jon Ruland
From: Tucson, AZ
Nov 28, 2011
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

one of the anchor hangers came off of this yesterday as i was attempting to clean the route. the nut was loose and it popped off as i was pulling on it. i will replace it as soon as i can, but anyone aiming to do this route should be aware there is only a single anchor hanger at this time.
By aequis
From: Vail, AZ
Oct 23, 2012

Like this climb, could like it more if the stance at the bolt(s) didn't seem as awkward to me.

Jon, you say the nut popped off, is the bolt still sound or should it be redrilled? I didn't think to wiggle it while I was there.

ETA--> Thanks Jon! Glad I checked here first, was planning to put in new hanger on Thursday.
By Jon Ruland
From: Tucson, AZ
Dec 3, 2012
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

the bolt is still sound. i'll be heading up there on saturday to replace the hanger. i should have done that a long time ago.
By Jon Ruland
From: Tucson, AZ
Dec 9, 2012
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

hanger replaced.