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Scarface
Routes Sorted
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Banditos !  T 
Anal Leakage T 
Big Guy T 
Big Jon T 
Black Uhuru T 
Carlito's Way T 
Cement Shoes T 
Cleaner, The T 
Cocaine Blues T 
Columbian Hit Man T 
Comic Relief T 
Cross Dihedral T 
Death of a Cowboy T 
Desert Shield T 
Desert Sunset T 
Desert Vuarnet T 
Dirt Cheap T 
Fat Farm, The T 
Fertile Crescent T 
Internal Scar T 
Lt. Uhuru T 
Mantel Illness T 
Montana Gangster T 
My Little Friend T 
Not That Funny T 
Nubian Slave T 
Polaris T 
Pop Quiz (aka Brown on Butter) T 
Route 666 T 
Scard Face  T 
Scarface T 
Sicilian T 
Spam T 
Steel Pulse T 
Sudden Impact T 
Torque Wrench T 
Trading Places T 
Twitch T 
Unknown (just right of Spam) T 
Unknown 10 T 
Unknown 10+ T 
Unknown 5.9 T 
Unknown name( 20 in 2nd edition) T 
Unnamed 10- T 
Unnamed 5.9 T 
Wavy Gravy T 
Way Of The Gun T 
Where's Carruthers? T 
Your Mama T 

Trading Places 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,028
Submitted By: Tony B on Mar 25, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (20)
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BETA PHOTO: Dane Casterson on the start of Unnamed 5.10 @POUND...

Description 

This is a good left-facing corner system on the left side of Scarface wall. Find the Classic Scarface and head left to a dark and shaded area of the wall on the left side. On the left is the right-facing Black Uhurhu and on the right is this left-facing Corner

It ascends the obvious crack through dark solid rock to fixed anchors. The crux for me was a bunlging between-hands-and-fists section, probably 2/3 up the route. I have small hands, so your individual experiance may be different.

This is a nice climb, overall. A basic Indian Creek dihedral, and a nice break from the typical thin corner.

Protection 

2" to 3.5" heavy on the 3"


Photos of Trading Places Slideshow Add Photo
Unnamed 5.10 #2
BETA PHOTO: Unnamed 5.10 #2

Comments on Trading Places Add Comment
Show which comments
By Anonymous Coward
Oct 25, 2004

Where's Carruthers is actually the next route immediately left of Scarface. It ascends a straight-in crack in a corner that moves from tight hands to very wide hands near the top.
By Rob T
Nov 3, 2006

Agreed w/ the above. you can also see "WC" spray painted at the base.
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Nov 3, 2006

Can someone tell me what routes I jsut described above then, the left and right sides of an opposing inset? I'd love to correct this posting and as such, move it off so someone can pos tthe correct route here...
If nobody can tell me what route this is, then please delete the comments so I can delete the route entry I made. I can't delete the route entry with comments attached.
By Braxtron
From: ...
Feb 4, 2007
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

I think this climb is actually Black Uhuru.
By slim
Administrator
Feb 5, 2007

hey tony,

was it a changing corner that starts left facing and then switches to right facing (change occurs right during a bulging section)? was it almost jet black rock? if so it is probably unnamed #2 in the bloom book.
By Tavis Ricksecker
From: Bishop, ca
Dec 1, 2007
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

Yep, Where's Carruther's is thin hands in a tight flare to a small ledge 30' up, then wide hands for another 30-40 feet. First climb left of Scarface.
By Ryan Fischer
From: Boulder
Apr 10, 2009

If the climb in question is in fact Unnamed 5.10 #2 in the Bloom guide. Here are a couple pics of it. Tight hands down low, then hands #2s, and a couple 3's after the corner change up top.
By Devin Fin
From: DURANGO
Jan 26, 2010

this climb is called trading places..... was put up by a strong man!
By Greg G
From: SLC, UT
Sep 14, 2012

this is left of black and lt. uhuru by about 150ft