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Trad Rock is the lower and foremost of the two most prominent rocks visible from the parking area. It hosts a good number of quality routes in a variety of grades from 5.6-5.11. In spite of its name, most of the routes on this crag are clip-ups. All in all, it's a great sport crag in an unbeatable setting.
From Tucson, had east on I-10 to exit #303 (Tombstone/Bisbee). Turn right (south) on Arizona Highway 80 and drive for about 20 miles. Just before Tombstone, turn left onto Middlemarch Road. Follow this rough gravel road for almost ten miles to Forest Road 687. Make a left, towards the West Stronghold and follow this dirt road another two miles north. Make a final right turn on a dirt road that leads to a circular parking area. The crags are visible from the road.
14 Total Routes
Browse More Classics in Trad Rock
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Trad Rock:
OK Corral 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Rabbits Feat 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Isle of You 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport, 1 pitch, 170'
Stone Woman 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Now It's My Turn 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Jizzneyland 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Rise and Shine, Cupcake 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport, 1 pitch
Hell in a Handbasket 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport, 1 pitch, 120'
The Chosen One 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport, 1 pitch, 165'
Ass Over Teacup 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport, 1 pitch, 120'
Featured Route For Trad Rock
The Chosen One 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c AZ : Cochise Stronghold : ... : Trad Rock
Earns the 5.11a rating just after the first bolt with delicate crimps and micro feet. Eases shortly thereafter with three or so 5.10 cruxes interspersed among the 165ft of climbing. Note there are significant (20ft) runouts between a few bolts on easier terrain. While arguably a one move wonder, the climbing above is so enjoyable and endless that it can be overlooked....[more] Browse More Classics in AZ
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