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Nov 26, 2012
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I am new to trad climbing. Cams are fuckin expensive. I dont want to waste money so I want to buy the right rack. I already own stoppers. I climb at primarily at Mt. Lemmon, but I also make frequent stopas at Joshua tree. A Mt. Lemmon set is pretty small, but the cracks at j tree can get pretty wide. What would a good middle of the road rack be.
Thanks MP
-Jason Davis
AnonymooseCoward
Joined Nov 22, 2012
180 points
Administrator
Nov 26, 2012
Me and the offspring walking back to the car after...
A good starter cam rack, if you're going to buy new, is the #3 to #.5 set of Black Diamond Camalots. Retail for these is about $325. If you buy the set on sale, you can usually get them for about $245 to $250. That's about 24% off. If you have the patience though, and know what to look for, you can find used ones here, on Craigslist, and on eBay for less than that. IMO if a used cam isn't at least 20% off and in excellent condition, it's better to go new. Jake Jones
From Richmond, VA
Joined Jul 30, 2011
1,005 points
Dec 2, 2012
Top of Intersection Rock, Joshua Tree NP.
Jake Jones wrote:
A good starter cam rack, if you're going to buy new, is the #3 to #.5 set of Black Diamond Camalots. Retail for these is about $325. If you buy the set on sale, you can usually get them for about $245 to $250. That's about 24% off. If you have the patience though, and know what to look for, you can find used ones here, on Craigslist, and on eBay for less than that. IMO if a used cam isn't at least 20% off and in excellent condition, it's better to go new.


agreed. go with BDs. i bought rock empire when i started years ago to save some money (i still use them) but have since bought a double rack of BD cams .5 to #3 and they are awesome. and i climb at joshua tree primarily. you might want to pick up a #4 and a #5 because you will use them in josh.

gearexpress.com has BD cams on sale for 25% off. i bought the #4,5, and #6. the sale was supposed to end last friday but a current check of their website shows it still on.
david doucette
Joined Nov 29, 2012
30 points
Dec 2, 2012
I agree with the #4 and #5 cams for Jtree. For most of the places you will be climbing you will be good to go with a double set of cams and nuts. I prefer Black Diamond #6 down to .5, and for small gear I use Metolius #3-#0 cams. From there all you have to do is decide if you want master cams, or if you should go TCU....or maybe powercam?.... Have fun. They all have their places. Mike Rowley
From Boise, Idaho
Joined Jul 9, 2009
86 points
Dec 3, 2012
'nother +1 for .5 to #3 C4's to start out with and figure it from there. NorCalNomad
From San Francisco
Joined Oct 6, 2011
116 points
Dec 3, 2012
my vote is .75 - 3 of camalots and then 1-4 metolius TCUs or master cams. Small BD cams annoy me, they're heavy and wide which makes them harder to place. Maybe add 5 and 6 of the metolius to double up in the middle. John D
Joined Nov 24, 2010
21 points
Dec 3, 2012
Colombian Crack
+1 for the posts above this one; BDs are your workhorses, and metolius for the smaller stuff. Offset nuts have a place in your rack soon, too, then offset cams as a final addition. Maurice Chaunders
Joined Sep 21, 2010
11 points
Dec 3, 2012
They are kind of uncool, but I always liked having a couple of medium sized hex's on longer routes. Especially if you are not going to have doubles in cams, often a hex fits in the same spot.

More cowbell!
ebaumsworld.com/video/watch/71...
TBlom
Joined Jun 29, 2004
340 points
Dec 8, 2012
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Thanks folks! I appreciate the advice and in sight. AnonymooseCoward
Joined Nov 22, 2012
180 points


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