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By Dgillis
Oct 26, 2012
So im getting ready to invest in some new extendable trad draws. Double wiregates or str8 gate and wiregate...why?

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By Marc H
From Lafayette, CO
Oct 26, 2012
The Cathedral Spires in RMNP, left to right: Stiletto, Sharkstooth, Forbidden Tower, Petit Grepon, The Saber, The Foil, The Moon & The Jackknife.
Why don't you experiment a little and get back to us on that?

Dgillis wrote:
...str8 gate...


On second thought, you'll probably fit in the bouldering scene a little better.

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By Forestvonsinkafinger
From Iowa
Oct 26, 2012
Perhaps what our friend is intending to imply is that perhaps you should follow at least 10 trad lines with multiple partners and lead a few with a partner and perhaps then you will know what you want in a trad draw.

I just use a few sport draws (3 short 3 long) and a few runners rambo style over my shoulders with a few extra biners on the belt.

But if you really want to be economical and gain some tout while you are at it. Make your pro out of knotted webbing and rope. These will have integrated draws and cost about $2 per.

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By Dom
Administrator
From New Brunswick Canada
Oct 26, 2012
Moby dick 5.11-
Bd dynex 60 cm with New snag free BD oz on the pro end and BD hoodwire on the rope end.
Bam, great draw!

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By bearbreeder
Oct 27, 2012
doesnt really matter ... i do however keep at least 2 solid gates somewhere to make a biner brake if needed ... its a good skill to have ;)

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By Ryan Williams
Administrator
From London (sort of)
Oct 27, 2012
El Chorro
I use wire gates but I think it is just because I have so many. I don't find that there is any reason not to use them. A notchless nose is nice so the webbing doesn't get stuck in the notch. But in general I don't like using the extenders because cleaning/re-racking them is slower.

I find that a combo of double ropes, slings over the shoulder and sport draws eliminates the need for more than a couple of "trad draws." You may find that you agree, but you'll need to climb a bit first and make your own decision.

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By Dgillis
Oct 27, 2012
Marc H wrote:
Why don't you experiment a little and get back to us on that? On second thought, you'll probably fit in the bouldering scene a little better.

Or you could just bite me. Ive been bouldering twice in my life and climbing off and on for 22 years. There were no wire gates when i started leading trad and after a taking an extended hiatus from climbing to have 3 kids, paddle and mtb. Im rebuilding my rack with some updated gear. When clipping bolts i prefer a solid gate on one end of the draw. I was seeking some feedback on if there was some drawback to having wiregates on both ends of the draw that i was overlooking. Please forgive me if i violated your ethos by abreviating while firing off a quick question from my ipad which is a pita to type on.

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By Colonel Mustard
From Reno, NV
Oct 27, 2012
Colonel Mustard
Dunno, man, I rock mostly wiregates on my trad draws. No drawbacks I've run into. A few solid gates too. Honestly, my biners migrate between cams, draws, sport draws, and what have you.

I do like the Wild Country Helium wire gates best though. They are essentially notchless, full-sized yet light, and pure sexy in cold forged metal form. And, no, I don't work for Wild Country.

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By Dgillis
Oct 27, 2012
Ryan Williams wrote:
I use wire gates but I think it is just because I have so many. I don't find that there is any reason not to use them. A notchless nose is nice so the webbing doesn't get stuck in the notch. But in general I don't like using the extenders because cleaning/re-racking them is slower. I find that a combo of double ropes, slings over the shoulder and sport draws eliminates the need for more than a couple of "trad draws." You may find that you agree, but you'll need to climb a bit first and make your own decision.


I agree on the nothchless nose. Ive done plenty of leading and following, but am coming back after some extended time off and rethinking some of my previous assumptions about the best way to do things in the light of "new" gear advancements. Never stop learning right? Anyway. Thanks to those that left constructive feedback.

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By Marc H
From Lafayette, CO
Oct 28, 2012
The Cathedral Spires in RMNP, left to right: Stiletto, Sharkstooth, Forbidden Tower, Petit Grepon, The Saber, The Foil, The Moon & The Jackknife.
Dgillis wrote:
Or you could just bite me. Ive been bouldering twice in my life and climbing off and on for 22 years. There were no wire gates when i started leading trad and after a taking an extended hiatus from climbing to have 3 kids, paddle and mtb. Im rebuilding my rack with some updated gear. When clipping bolts i prefer a solid gate on one end of the draw. I was seeking some feedback on if there was some drawback to having wiregates on both ends of the draw that i was overlooking. Please forgive me if i violated your ethos by abreviating while firing off a quick question from my ipad which is a pita to type on.


Haha. That's awesome.

I use wireg8s on both ends of my extendables. Then it can never really be "upside down" if that makes any. I haven't come across any situations where it has been a disadvantage. Though notch-less biners are nice I have to admit. A couple companies are making notch-less wireg8s that you might want to look into.

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By Dgillis
Oct 28, 2012
That was what i had been thinking. Leaning that way myself.

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By richie
From englewood, tn
Oct 28, 2012
I use wire gates on both ends and have never had a problem. I use mostly over the shoulder for cams that already have a biner on them but carry extendable draws with wire gates on both ends for nuts and tri cams.

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By ARowland
Oct 28, 2012
richie wrote:
I use wire gates on both ends and have never had a problem. I use mostly over the shoulder for cams that already have a biner on them but carry extendable draws with wire gates on both ends for nuts and tri cams.


This. I've been using the madrock wiregates and 10mm BD slings for this and it works just fine. Not that I have a whole lot of experience with other setups, but I haven't had any problems with it.

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