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Trad Climbing   

Subtopics in Trad Climbing:


    What is Traditional Climbing?
    This is a description of the basic methods and ethos of traditional or "trad" climbing.
    Climbing Tech Tips
    Protection Layout
    How to Build Your First Trad Rack
    Trad climbing requires a lot of gear. From cams to carabiners, nuts to nut tools, there are so many options out there that it’s hard to know where to even begin when you make the decision to build your first trad rack. There’s also the question of how much gear you actual...
    Andrew Bisharat at Backcountry
    Being Prepared and Racking Up
    Mental checklist for a trad route and how to prep your climbing gear.
    Climbing Tech Tips
    How to Place a Stopper or Nut
    View this demonstration on how to position a nut in rock constrictions, clip in and recognize problems with directionality.
    Climbing Tech Tips
    How to Place Cams
    Learn how to place camming devices (cams) in which parts of the rock for best results.
    Climbing Tech Tips
    Fig 1 Untie your cordelette <br />by Supercorn
    Build an Anchor in Poor Rock
    How many pieces do you need for a traditional anchor? Most climbers don’t have time to blink before they answer this question. But if you answered “three,” you’re wrong. An anchor takes as many pieces as it needs based on rock quality, positioning, angle, and other factor...
    Jason D. Martin at Climbing Magazine
    Use Your Loops Wisely
    Attain Speed by Eliminating Gear-Fumbling
    Successful and swift trad climbing is all about efficiency. You can’t squander minutes searching for the perfect piece, drain strength by over-gripping while you untangle runners from your cams, or waste energy by lugging up unnecessary weight. Mayan Smith-Gobat knows a t...
    Leia Larsen and Mayan Smith-Gobat at Climbing Magazine
    Setting up a clean rappel
    Prevent Rope Snags During Rappels
    Setting up a clean rappel THE SINGLE MOST IMPORTANT thing when retreating in a storm is to maintain steady downward progress. Foremost, this means avoiding a stuck rope. As you descend, be mindful of rope-eating blocks or flakes. If you encounter a r...
    Mark Synnott at Climbing Magazine
    Lengthen Pro for Maximum Safety
    Extending gear means clipping a long sling to a piece of protection (bolts or traditional pro), and it is a vital part of learning to lead, especially on long, blocky, or wandering routes. The top two reasons for extending a placement are minimizing rope drag and keeping ...
    Julie Ellison at Climbing Magazine
    How to Remove a Stopper or Nut
    See how to remove nuts / stoppers, rack them afterwards and not drop your nut tool in the process.
    Climbing Tech Tips
    Placing Gear on Lead
    See the best positions from which to place gear.
    Climbing Tech Tips
    Fig 1. how to remove a cam
    How to Clean Cams
    Getting humbled in the art of cam-cleaning is a rite of passage for aspiring tradsters. You know the story: The second, a trad-climbing newbie, fiddles with a cam for what seems like eternity before declaring it totally stuck. Welded. Fixed. Beyond saving. The more experi...
    Laura Snider at Climbing Magazine
    How To Build a Trad Anchor
    Learn the best way to build a simple, safe, equalized anchor.
    Climbing Tech Tips
    Photo Credit: Adam Riser
    Climbing Anchors to Avoid
    Anchors are extremely important. Whether you’re going up or down, at some point your anchor will be the only thing connecting you and your partner to whatever you’re climbing. Pulling a piece of gear in a lead fall usually just leads to a bigger fall. Anchor failures, on ...
    Adam Riser at Backcountry
    Advanced Trad Lead Demo
    Learn advanced techniques and gear tips for leading the Joshua Tree classic "Coarse and Buggy" 11a/b.
    Climbing Tech Tips
    Bunny Ears Step 1
    Bunny Ears: The Best Climbing Knot You've Never Heard Of
    Whether you’re doing a three-pitch free climb or a 3000-foot big wall, multi-pitch climbing is all about efficiency. Every little time-saving action, every slightly more streamlined step, adds up to saving you precious hours—it’s the difference between climbing the last h...
    Andrew Bisharat at Backcountry
    Climbing and Protecting Traverses
    Climb traverses safely and see the importance of protecting traverses for the follower.
    Climbing Tech Tips
    Stacking Ropes on Multi-Pitch Climbs
    Stacking Ropes on Multi-Pitch Climbs
    Good rope management at belays saves time and headaches. When you belay on a ledge, feed the rope into a small pile, about two feet around, as you take it in. Compact the growing rope pile with your hands or feet to keep it stacking bottom to top, and to keep it from slid...
    Ian Nicholson at Climbing Magazine
    Plan for and Conquer a Crux
    Learn how to prepare for a crux and then send it with control.
    Climbing Tech Tips
    Navigating a Roof
    Learn where to place gear when leading a roof and why proper placement is important.
    Climbing Tech Tips
    Make Quickdraws with Long Slings
    Watch this demonstration of extending slings and re-clipping long slings to make shorter quickdraws for trad and alpine climbs.
    Climbing Tech Tips
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