Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
The Gallery
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Day in the Life S 
Buck's Muscle World S 
Gelatin Pooch S 
Gift, The S 
Glitch, The S 
Gridlock S 
Gridlock Direct S 
Minstrel in the Gallery S 
Nothing Shocking S 
Pump First, Pay Later S 
Range of Motion S 
Running Amuck S 
Sissy Traverse S 
Social Disorder S 
Sport Climbing is Neither S 
That Goode Dude Climb S 
Trad Climbing is Both T 
Where the Down Boys Go S 
Yaak Crack S 

Trad Climbing is Both 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 250'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: Kevin Buckingham, Sabrina King, 25 Dec 2011 (?)
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,744
Submitted By: krbuckingham on Dec 30, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: Looking down on pitch 2, just before the obvious c...

RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>


This climb starts at the bottom of the obvious right leaning crack to the left of Sport Climbing is Neither. Pitch one is approx. 100 feet. Belay to the far left on a platform. Protect the horizontal crack with hand-sized gear. Pitch two starts right along the face, then up and left up the obvious crack. Belay at the tripod pedestal rock using slings or cordalette. Bring slings to leave and rap rings or walk off down the gulley behind the climb to the right. Bring approach shoes! We did not rap off, so we don't know all the details.

Also, no idea if this is an actual first ascent... The name is obvious, so if it has been climbed, I bet it's called this already. If anyone knows of a previous FA party, let us know!


Left of Sport Climbing is Neither.


Finger to hand size cams, standard nut rack.

Photos of Trad Climbing is Both Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Crack on pitch 1.
BETA PHOTO: Crack on pitch 1.
Rock Climbing Photo: Belay on pitch 1.
BETA PHOTO: Belay on pitch 1.
Rock Climbing Photo: Belay station at the top of pitch 2. Hike out is b...
BETA PHOTO: Belay station at the top of pitch 2. Hike out is b...

Comments on Trad Climbing is Both Add Comment
Show which comments
By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Dec 31, 2011

Doubt it, but I guarantee every trad climber thats ever been to the Gallery has thought about it (i know I have!)- nice job!
By JohnniMo
From: Las Vegas, Nevada
Mar 12, 2015
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

When we climbed this we decided to build an anchor at the top of the ramp (bottom of the obvious crack on the left) on pitch 2, thereby dividing the climb into three pitches. I highly recommend this as it will save a ton of rope drag when you turn left into the crack. The crack will accept a wide range of cams at this point (maybe .5 to #3 or even a #4 camalots). Just remember to save some slings for the last anchor.
By Ben Townsend
Nov 19, 2015

Fun climb, pretty easy after the first couple of moves. Gear placements are at a premium on the first pitch, so think twice before passing any up. We belayed fairly high on the ramp that forms the second pitch; one could easily link both pitches, but we were concerned about the rope running over loose blocks on the slab, directly over the Gallery climbs.

Someone has left a big bolt and link down at the base of the second pitch ramp, which made approximately as much sense as the underwear that was hung on a bush next to it.

We descended via ramps and slots to the west, then cut over east on ledgy slabs to the base.

The Definitive
Climbing Resource

Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run

Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps

Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes

Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!