Locate the route Trouble and Strife, which is difficult to find by following the description in the guidebooks, but is obvious once you are there and see it. From the base of the [Lower] Peanuts Wall, below Your Basic Lieback and Star Wars, amoung others, look uphill and to your right. You will see a small tower of rock with a sharp lightning-bolt fingercrack. going up, to the right, then up again, with the crack getting wider as you climb upwards.
Go up the trail just past this, around a corner to a North-facing wall on this same small buttress. Look up on this face. Climb this short wall to the top and continue on something more worthwhile, like Your Basic Lieback or Star Wars.
Or maybe don't. It's not really worth the hassle if you are not going to go upward from there.
|By Chris Zeller|
From: Boulder, CO
May 6, 2008
This route falls somewhere between a highball boulder problem and a climb. The crux is down low but the pro is bad here. Above the horizontal crack it gets easier and the fall potential is less. Then its over.
The climbing is fun but overall its too short to be a climb.