TR-Solo with 1 Microtraxion?

How many of you solo with just one mini or microtraxion???

(I already know that i'm gunna dye, but I don't care cause life is a lot less valuable than most people think)

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Yes. I use one microtraxion. And clip into a second strand w/figure of eights tied every 10 feet or so for redundancy.

I know what Petzl recommends, but I've also seen most people with one ascender or one grigri for soloing. . .

When you clip into the figure eights do you drop the last one you clip after clipping the first, or do you just have multiple figure eights clipped to you when you get to the anchor?

mike67mike wrote:Yes. I use one microtraxion. And clip into a second strand w/figure of eights tied every 10 feet or so for redundancy.

This is my preference.

As for the figure 8's I usually add them all on b/c if you take one knot off to put another on you lose your redundancy. There can be a small drawback of added weight of the rope as you get higher and it can make it easier for the many loops of rope to catch on the rock/flakes etc. However, my rope soloing has usually been on short 40-60 ft routes and I have only TR soloed to practice aid so it really hasn't been a problem.

One mini, one ascender.

Or,

One mini, backup knots underneath me on same strand.

Micro-traxions are great, I love them.

But they can, and do, lock open. My friends have seen it. I've seen it.

Improve your chances by filing off the tab and using some sort of backup device.

I solo with one mini all the time, typically no more than 50 feet or so. I occasionally use a back up asceder or if i don't i'll use at least one back up knot. I also solo well under what i actually climb.

DoesNotCare wrote:How many of you solo with just one mini or microtraxion??? (I already know that i'm gunna dye, but I don't care cause life is a lot less valuable than most people think)

Microtrax + a Cinch. Love that set-up!

Petzl Basic and Trango Cinch, on two different strands. The first time I tried TR soloing, I only used one strand and an old rope, and got a core shot from it rubbing over the top of the cliff (not an edge, just crystalline rock). This scared me a bit, so now I use 2 strands, and I build a second anchor below the lip of the cliff to take the weight until I top out.

I've TR solo'd with one mini and backup knots. I used two 24" slings attached to my harness with lockers for clipping the knots. Unclip the bottom one, clip the higher one, repeat. Never loses redundancy. Also a PITA -- if I TR solo'd much I'd just buy a second device.

mini traxion on one strand and a basic acender on the other strand.

One rope with a microtraxion(weight the rope with a full nalgene for good rope feed), one rope with alpine butterflies tied every 5-10ft/ at good clipping stances. 2 slings girth hitched to your harness to clip off to the butterfly knots. Clip the next one before you unclip the last one and yer not gonna die(TR soloing). If the route is less than half a rope length you can just use a single rope that's fixed in the middle for your two fixed lines.
Make sure you know enough self rescue to get back to the ground in a number of scenarios. And don't fuck up, you're alone.

I've had the best results with Rock Exotica's "Soloist". It maybe worth a look, regardless, always use backup knots, no matter the system!

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Ive used a single micro before with backup knots

The biggest risk is the cam being disabled and you plummeting onto your backup knots

If using a single line this can damage the rope and the micro ... So make sure you know how to get out with a damaged rope and no ascender

Using a second independent line for clips is safe, but you can still take a big fall, make sure yr using dynamic rope and account for stretch in where you place the backup knots

A second microcender or other such costs 50$ ... And improves your safety substantially when soloing IMO

;)

bearbreeder wrote:Ive used a single micro before with backup knots The biggest risk is the cam being disabled and you plummeting onto your backup knots If using a single line this can damage the rope and the micro ... So make sure you know how to get out with a damaged rope and no ascender Using a second independent line for clips is safe, but you can still take a big fall, make sure yr using dynamic rope and account for stretch in where you place the backup knots A second microcender or other such costs 50$ ... And improves your safety substantially when soloing IMO ;)

where do you get a microtrax for 50 bucks???? I'm about to buy one and all I find is retailing for 90+

You talking used??? I'd rather not use a device I dont know the history on if my life is attached directly to it.

CAMP's ascender, the CAMP Lift, is right around that $50 mark.

Some here have raised concerns of a certain accident report involving a fatigued climber on a wall clipping into it incorrectly, climbing up, falling, and whizzing down some distance of rope and slamming into the end of the rope.

However, the ascender is plainly marked and I find its use intuitive. Its advantage is a toothless rope clamp, rather than a toothed cam found on the petzl mini/microscenders.

I use this with a petzl tibloc backup on a separate line (I extend it with a sling girth hitched to my harness so it doesn't come under tension unless the Lift failed to catch me.)

Also, I use CAMP's HMS Compact biner because its rounded, symmetrical shape prevents cross loading, and it's rated to 10 KN along the minor axis.

Pretty simple (& idiot proof) set-up:

Rope 1- Microtraxion, Ropeman, Shunt on line
Rope 2- Butterflys every 5-10 feet on line

You can also sub the second line with a Ropeman or Shunt instead of knots.

Some people don't like falling on anything that has teeth (duh) and if you really botch something. You have a second line that probably isn't messed up to lower, self rescue, etc with.

While life isn't valuable to me as some, Being a burden on your family when you are crippled out of laziness is a pretty shitty thing.

doak wrote:Micro-traxions are great, I love them. But they can, and do, lock open. My friends have seen it. I've seen it. Improve your chances by filing off the tab and using some sort of backup device.

Hi,
Can you give the details of these events please? And when you say file the tab off, does this still apply to the micro rather than the mini.

I use a micro a lot when I'm lead soloing long routes to return back up to the belay after cleaning the pitch (I lead solo with an SP or Eddy), and I'm trying to see if any of the reported accidents were from the design of the device rather than pilot error.

Thanks

Jackxc925 wrote:CAMP's ascender, the CAMP Lift, is right around that $50 mark. Some here have raised concerns of a certain accident report involving a fatigued climber on a wall clipping into it incorrectly, climbing up, falling, and whizzing down some distance of rope and slamming into the end of the rope. However, the ascender is plainly marked and I find its use intuitive. Its advantage is a toothless rope clamp, rather than a toothed cam found on the petzl mini/microscenders. I use this with a petzl tibloc backup on a separate line (I extend it with a sling girth hitched to my harness so it doesn't come under tension unless the Lift failed to catch me.) Also, I use CAMP's HMS Compact biner because its rounded, symmetrical shape prevents cross loading, and it's rated to 10 KN along the minor axis.

Be careful with the tibloc as a TR solo device. I have personally seen it core shot a rope from catching a TR fall on the twilight zone. Basically the device cut the sheath and the sheath slid down the core until it had bunched up enough to jam the whole mess.

If you ask the "locals" in El Portal about their set up for their gym…uh, I mean the Cookie Cliff…they use one rope, two traxions or a traxion on the belay loop and a shunt or some other toothless ascender clipped to a chest harness. There is also an old guy there who climbs with just one mini and claims that it is the backup and his main source of safety is his climbing ability.

I only use mine while ice climbing.

Set up a single fixed line up top. rap down to the bottom of the route.
coil the rope so I have a bundle that hangs just off the ground so the microtraxon runs smooth.
Place an ice screw about 3 foot above the rope bundle and clip the rope using a draw. that allows a bit of flexibility in the system but keeps the rope from going too far in the event of a fall.
Clip the microtraxion on the rope and climb.
Every few feet place an ice screw and clip the rope.
If I do fall the microtraxion can catch me, if for some reason the micro does not catch I simply fall to the last screw placed. Much like a lead fall.
When I get to the top, rap down, I un-clip the draws and leave the screws in place to re-clip when I climb back up.
I have never fallen on that system, I simply use it to run a few laps and have fun. Its best not to fall on ice.