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(L1) John Nichol's Wall
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A Ghost in the Music T 
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Last Beautiful Days of Autumn T,S 
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TR, Project T,S 
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Wizard of Loneliness S 
Writing Down the Bones S 

TR, Project 

YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 136
Submitted By: Mike Howard on May 5, 2011

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Description 

Ramifications. Caution loose rock below and through roof. Needs cleaning.


Location 

Downstream of Milagro.


Protection 

Mixed



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By Jason Halladay
Administrator
From: Los Alamos, NM
Jan 16, 2012
rating: 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6a

I climbed this yesterday (with one fall getting into the slot) not realizing, A.) It was a project and B.) Some gear above the roof was necessary. (I was able to step over on a ledge after the roof and haul up some gear, though, so it was fine.)
Despite some punky rock, I enjoyed it. Lots of awkward holds, body tension, funky movements and even some chimneying-type stuff. As testament to the funky moves, I'm quite sore now; 24+ hours later.

If it's not an open project, I'll stay off next time we're there. Thanks.

By Mike Howard
Administrator
Jan 17, 2012

Jason, glad you enjoyed it. I crowbarred about 300 lbs of choss out of the band under the slot last time we were on it and wanted to have another look at it. The holds in the chimney are also hollow and I never wanted a belayer to take one on the noggin. We'll get her ready for prime time in the spring. I am glad you guys survived it.