TPMV (10% Meteorological Vinculation)
||Trad, 4 pitches, 300'
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.13- French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E7 6c [details]|
|FA: ||Dave Anderson, Bruce Carson, 1/73 FFA(p1): Larry Kemp, Max Dufford, Greg Olsen, Darryl Cramer FFA(p3-4): Greg Olsen, Darryl Cramer|
|Page Views: ||2,143|
|Submitted By: ||Drewsky on Dec 29, 2008|
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This is a classic 5 pitch excursion up the entirety of the lower wall. Most often only the spectacular first free pitch (via Japanese Gardens, .11+) is climbed. The original aid version had 5 pitches (C1/2, 5.11+). The free version of today also has 5, but the length of the pitches is probably different. The runout bit is on the second original pitch. An amazing line.
P1: (.11+) The original pitch one is a good clean aid crack, but is now most often done free by stepping left at the first anchor on Japanese Gardens and following a few bolts and gear through corners and cracks to an anchor (.11+).
P2: (.13- R) The next section (originally C1/2) consists of a very difficult section above the anchor (.13-, small gear) followed by a runout mantle and stemming in a corner up to an anchor on a ledge. If free climbing, it is more desirable to climb this as one long pitch from the ground because of the possibility of a long fall past and/or onto the anchor.
P3: (.10) This may originally have been part of P2 when done as an aid climb. Climb cracks and face, angling left to an anchor below the slab headwall (5.10-, slightly runout).
P4: (.11b/c) Absolutely fantastic! Originally a tough aid pitch, this is now a challenging slab climb. Step left from the anchor and do a committing move to clip the first bolt. Continue up the corner via bolts and gear, then follow the dike up until you can step right to a ledge with an anchor via runout 5.9 climbing (.11c). Alternately, continue up the dike to join Newest Industry.
P5: (.10d) This pitch climbs a slab past a bolt and some gear to a difficult mantle past a bolt (.10+). Above, cracks lead to an optional belay anchor and two slab options: 5.8 R past a large hangerless stud or 5.9 past 2 bolts. Both lead to the anchor atop the wall.
Start as for Japanese Gardens, which begins in a right facing corner down the trail and right of Sagittarius. It should be noted that the first real pitch of TPMV is C1/2 aid and is reputedly very enjoyable. It starts in thin cracks just to the right of Sagittarius.
It should also be noted that the original pitch 2 was freed in the past at a much more moderate grade but rockfall occurred, leaving the current interpretation.
Nuts and cams to #4 Camalot (for the section on Japanese Gardens) with emphasis on finger size cams; include RPs and tiny cams if attempting the .13- section.
Descent is usually possible with one 70m rope in this section of the wall, but for peace of mind bring two that are at least 60m. All anchors mentioned above are bolted and currently have chains.
|Comments on TPMV (10% Meteorological Vinculation)
By Ben Gilkison
Jan 6, 2014
For the Full 10% (i.e. the extension), it is mandatory to link the first and second pitches together. I fell off like 10 times while attempting the redpoint, and each of those falls from the crux took me past the first anchor. The trajectory of fall precludes belaying at the first 10% anchor. Please Note: there is 3" ledge just below the first anchor that is possible to tag with a heel or toe if one whips from the crux. On one of my falls I didn't have quite the clearance, and smashed my heel smack into the small ledge, which didn't feel that awesome after sailing through the air for 15'. Beware.
That said, I didn't use any small cams. I believe I protected the crux with a micronut. If you decide to place a cam instead (which will definitely work), there is less room to use the crack pocket for your fingers.
Yesterday I was up there and noticed the extension bush and greenery have really grown back. Fortunately, this area is small. Perhaps I'll head back up and do some cleaning soon.
Also, don't let the grade intimidate. It was one of those really hard to gauge routes. While the crux is potent, it is relatively short lived and balancy to boot. If you're taller than 5'6" I think that it would be perhaps only 5.12. Though, the only other ascent was by my buddy Tobias who is 5'4".
Aug 18, 2014
I'm 5'8" and found the 2nd pitch/extension past the anchors to be harder than 5.12, so I don't think that the FA grade is only for shorter folks. As far as a wire or cam to protect this section vis-a-vis leaving room for fingers in the slot - I couldn't begin to get my (fairly small) fingers into the slot, so a cam, wire, or even both would be fine and not make the moves any harder.
I removed a bunch of the blackberry vines on P2 and figured out that if you extend the anchor down 10' with a couple double runners, you can TR P1 + P2 (BARELY) with an 80m rope.