|Type:||Trad, 4 pitches, 300'|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.13- French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E7 6c [details]|
|FA:||Dave Anderson, Bruce Carson, 1/73 FFA(p1): Larry Kemp, Max Dufford, Greg Olsen, Darryl Cramer FFA(p3-4): Greg Olsen, Darryl Cramer|
|Submitted By:||Drewsky on Dec 29, 2008|
|Comments on TPMV (10% Meteorological Vinculation)||Add Comment|
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By Ben Gilkison
Jan 6, 2014
For the Full 10% (i.e. the extension), it is mandatory to link the first and second pitches together. I fell off like 10 times while attempting the redpoint, and each of those falls from the crux took me past the first anchor. The trajectory of fall precludes belaying at the first 10% anchor. Please Note: there is 3" ledge just below the first anchor that is possible to tag with a heel or toe if one whips from the crux. On one of my falls I didn't have quite the clearance, and smashed my heel smack into the small ledge, which didn't feel that awesome after sailing through the air for 15'. Beware.
That said, I didn't use any small cams. I believe I protected the crux with a micronut. If you decide to place a cam instead (which will definitely work), there is less room to use the crack pocket for your fingers.
Yesterday I was up there and noticed the extension bush and greenery have really grown back. Fortunately, this area is small. Perhaps I'll head back up and do some cleaning soon.
Also, don't let the grade intimidate. It was one of those really hard to gauge routes. While the crux is potent, it is relatively short lived and balancy to boot. If you're taller than 5'6" I think that it would be perhaps only 5.12. Though, the only other ascent was by my buddy Tobias who is 5'4".
Aug 18, 2014
P2 isn't "R" for the 5.13- crux, which protects well with a BOMBER blue alien. It's a crux done above your gear, but most falls should be fine. You could even pad the narrow P1 belay ledge with a sweatshirt if you are worried about clipping it with your toes.
Use lots of long slings on P1 if you're linking into P2, or else lower your belayer down to a semi-hanging stance a few meters under the ledge so you don't smash into them.
P3 is a nice pitch that deserves traffic as a LTW moderate.
From the anchor atop P2 (which are also atop " It's a Dog's Life ...") and which is located 15' left of the top of J. Gardens P2:
Climb the overhanging and leaning finger crack (crux) then mantle up and left. Move up and left again around the left side of a major flake system. Face climb up and slightly right on a flake and knobs, and then work out left up the left edge of the flake until it ends, and you can face climb shortly to the anchor. 5.10b - Single set of cams and include some slings.