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TPMV (10% Meteorological Vinculation) T 

TPMV (10% Meteorological Vinculation) 

YDS: 5.13- French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E7 6c R

Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 300'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13- French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E7 6c [details]
FA: Dave Anderson, Bruce Carson, 1/73 FFA(p1): Larry Kemp, Max Dufford, Greg Olsen, Darryl Cramer FFA(p3-4): Greg Olsen, Darryl Cramer
Page Views: 2,396
Submitted By: Drewsky on Dec 29, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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Pitch 3. on a beautiful January day.


This is a classic 5 pitch excursion up the entirety of the lower wall. Most often only the spectacular first free pitch (via Japanese Gardens, .11+) is climbed. The original aid version had 5 pitches (C1/2, 5.11+). The free version really only has 4, as the crux second pitch is combined with the first. The runout bit is on the extended first pitch. An amazing line.

P1 (short/original): (.11+) The original pitch one is a good clean aid crack, but P1 is now most often done free by stepping left at the first anchor on Japanese Gardens and following shallow corners and cracks past 3 bolts and gear to an anchor (.11+).

P1 (full): (.13- R) The next section above the first anchor consists of a difficult height dependent bouldery section (5.12 to 5.13-, small gear,) followed by a runout mantle and stemming in a corner up to an anchor on a ledge. If free climbing, it is mandatory (safer, better) to climb this as part of one long pitch from the ground because of the possibility of a fall onto the anchor.

P2: (.10) This may originally have been part of P2 when done as an aid climb. Climb cracks and face, angling left to an anchor below the obvious corner start of the slab pitch (5.10-, slightly runout).

P3: (.11b/c) Fantastic, challenging pitch of slab and corner. Step left and up from the anchor and do a committing and slightly scary move back right to clip the first bolt. Continue up the corner via bolts and gear, then follow the left-trending dike until you can step right to a ledge with an anchor via slightly runout 5.9 climbing. Alternately, continue up the dike and over the roof to join Newest Industry. This pitch can be approached via P1-2 of Japanese Gardens as well and is well worth the trip either way.

P4: (.10d) This pitch climbs a slab past a bolt and some gear to a difficult mantle past a bolt (.10+). Above, cracks lead to an optional belay anchor (best not to stop here) and two slab options: 5.8 further right or 5.9 straight up past 2 bolts. Both lead to the anchor atop the wall.


Start as for Japanese Gardens, which begins in a right facing corner down the trail and right of Sagittarius. It should be noted that the first real pitch of TPMV is C1/2 aid and is reputedly very enjoyable. It starts in thin cracks just to the right of Sagittarius.

It should also be noted that the original pitch 2 was freed in the past at a much more moderate grade but rockfall occurred, leaving the current interpretation.


Nuts and cams to #4 Camalot (for the section on Japanese Gardens) with emphasis on finger size cams; include RPs and tiny cams if attempting the .13- section.

Descent is usually possible with one 70m rope in this section of the wall, but for peace of mind bring two that are at least 60m. All anchors mentioned above are bolted and currently have chains.

Comments on TPMV (10% Meteorological Vinculation) Add Comment
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By Ben Gilkison
Jan 6, 2014

For the Full 10% (i.e. the extension), it is mandatory to link the first and second pitches together. I fell off like 10 times while attempting the redpoint, and each of those falls from the crux took me past the first anchor. The trajectory of fall precludes belaying at the first 10% anchor. Please Note: there is 3" ledge just below the first anchor that is possible to tag with a heel or toe if one whips from the crux. On one of my falls I didn't have quite the clearance, and smashed my heel smack into the small ledge, which didn't feel that awesome after sailing through the air for 15'. Beware.

That said, I didn't use any small cams. I believe I protected the crux with a micronut. If you decide to place a cam instead (which will definitely work), there is less room to use the crack pocket for your fingers.

Yesterday I was up there and noticed the extension bush and greenery have really grown back. Fortunately, this area is small. Perhaps I'll head back up and do some cleaning soon.

Also, don't let the grade intimidate. It was one of those really hard to gauge routes. While the crux is potent, it is relatively short lived and balancy to boot. If you're taller than 5'6" I think that it would be perhaps only 5.12. Though, the only other ascent was by my buddy Tobias who is 5'4".
By blakeherrington
Aug 18, 2014

P2 isn't "R" for the 5.13- crux, which protects well with a BOMBER blue alien. It's a crux done above your gear, but most falls should be fine. You could even pad the narrow P1 belay ledge with a sweatshirt if you are worried about clipping it with your toes.

Use lots of long slings on P1 if you're linking into P2, or else lower your belayer down to a semi-hanging stance a few meters under the ledge so you don't smash into them.

P3 is a nice pitch that deserves traffic as a LTW moderate.

From the anchor atop P2 (which are also atop " It's a Dog's Life ...") and which is located 15' left of the top of J. Gardens P2:

Climb the overhanging and leaning finger crack (crux) then mantle up and left. Move up and left again around the left side of a major flake system. Face climb up and slightly right on a flake and knobs, and then work out left up the left edge of the flake until it ends, and you can face climb shortly to the anchor. 5.10b - Single set of cams and include some slings.
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