View Routes near Toxxxic Entertainment| Spiney Ridge |  |
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| Rising, The S | ||
| Short & Sweet S | ||
| Stone of Ignorance S | ||
| Straight Rocket S | ||
| Sugar and Spice S | ||
| Toxxxic Entertainment S | ||
| Tractatus S | ||
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Toxxxic Entertainment
YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a
| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 65' |
| Consensus: | YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details] |
| FA: | Bob D'Antonio & Rick Thompson, 2000 |
| Page Views: | 2,568 |
| Submitted By: | Brad Short on Apr 20, 2003 |
You & This Route | Other Opinions (95)
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Description
Start at a small, left-facing corner, working your way up to a reasonable stance below the obvious, layback flake. Power up the layback (with reasonable feet after the first moves) and stretch right to the anchors shared with Nalalator.
It is a fun climb, and the layback is not all that pumpy if a good pace is maintained. This is a well-protected route.
The new D'Antonio guidebook (2010), has an error on the photo portion of Spiney Ridge. It appears the route lines are shifted making Toxxxic Entertainment appear to be Purple Toe Nails.
It is a fun climb, and the layback is not all that pumpy if a good pace is maintained. This is a well-protected route.
The new D'Antonio guidebook (2010), has an error on the photo portion of Spiney Ridge. It appears the route lines are shifted making Toxxxic Entertainment appear to be Purple Toe Nails.
Location
This is two routes right of Travis is Soul King.
Protection
8 bolts plus anchors.
Slideshow
Bill throwing for the crimps.
BETA PHOTO: Spiney Ridge - left. Sunday Pockets is renamed 20...
Bart Calkins starting up the beautiful layback fla...
BETA PHOTO: Toxxxic Entertainment from the start of the route.
Bill throwing for the crimps.
Didn't seem Toxxxic at all to me; very enjoyable i...
Adam.
| Comments on Toxxxic Entertainment | Add Comment |
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By Darin Lang Apr 21, 2003 rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
You can double your fun on this one by jamming the layback flack. Stellar hand jams, and much more skin-friendly than most at Shelf. |
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By Darin Lang Apr 21, 2003 rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
I meant layback "flake", of course. |
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By Ron Olsen From: Boulder, CO Oct 15, 2003 rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
Super fun! The flake has a good edge all the way up, and the airy layback makes this one of the best 10a routes on the cliff. |
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By Sirius From: Oakland, CA Jun 4, 2004 |
I agree - excellent and really fun climbing. My thanks to the FA's. Also, perfectly bolted (i.e. very safe) for the nascent 5.10 leader. |
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By Jordan Hirro From: Colorado Springs/Glenwood Spri Nov 9, 2013 |
Way fun climb! A must do. 10a may be a letter grade soft. This felt a lot like Crack of Dawn 10b, so 10a/b I think is fair. Little mix up in Bob D.'s guidebook with this one and Purple Toenails 11c, so heads up. |
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By Jessica Jensen Apr 22, 2014 |
Great climb! Definitely a must do. BEWARE: climbed today, found out the hard way that there is a swift bird's nest in the crack. Found myself being dive bombed by a swarm of swifts trying to protect the nest. Make sure to listen carefully for chirps in the crack to avoid any bird attacks. Apart from that, promising holds and fun moves. Enjoy! |
