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Aggro Gully
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Toxic 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Colin Lantz and Greg Robinson 10/87
Page Views: 7,829
Submitted By: Peter Franzen on Jan 22, 2006
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (73)
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Nailing the bucket after the successful dyno
Seasonal Raptor Closure 2012 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Toxic is short and sweet. It's probably the steepest moderate climb at Smith Rock. While the crux is somewhat height-dependant it's a dyno for virtually everybody. The holds are enormous and the fall isn't bad at all, so fire with everything you've got!

The large jugs are a welcome change from the crimps and pockets that are found on most routes here.

Toxic can be found at the far left end of the left side of the Aggro Gully. Belay from some large boulders at the base of the route.


Protection 

5 bolts and a bolted anchor



Photos of Toxic Slideshow Add Photo
Yes, that IS the crux move.  Whatever your beta, that jug is still a long ways away.
Yes, that IS the crux move. Whatever your beta, t...
stretching...
stretching...
Pulling the crux for a short person involves an all points off dyno.
Pulling the crux for a short person involves an al...
Ryan Palo demonstrating the exceedingly awkward and unorthodox left-foot heel-hook beta.
Ryan Palo demonstrating the exceedingly awkward an...
"how not to do it"
"how not to do it"
Almost to the rest jug.
Almost to the rest jug.
Nailing the crux move.
Nailing the crux move.
Throwing to the bucket of Toxic
Throwing to the bucket of Toxic
ooof!  gaining the bucket.
ooof! gaining the bucket.
Another heel hook shot for toxic
BETA PHOTO: Another heel hook shot for toxic
Comments on Toxic Add Comment
Show which comments
By Anthony Stout
Administrator
From: Albuquerque, NM
Feb 28, 2006

AhHA!! Dyno for everybody!? Try a heel hook off the flake out on the right, you can do the move quite static if you get it figured out! Makes it easier too. Beautiful route!

By Jesse James
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Mar 24, 2006

Fun crux, but way too short to be considered classic in my opinion.

By Karsten
From: Sacramento, CA
Oct 10, 2007

Not too short to be classic in my book as the moves are so fun on this one.

Hooking the flake makes it easier??? I think that may depend on your body type. For me it definately was not easier.

By Mark Gibson
From: Seattle, WA
Apr 15, 2009

If you grab the huge hole as kind of a sidepull with your left hand, work your left foot up high on a small edge and heel hook the flake, it is easier for everyone 5'8 and up.

By Nick Sullens
From: Hong Kong, Hong Kong
Dec 27, 2009

The heel hook is the way to go.

By GoSharks
From: CA
May 19, 2010

Rated 11c in the new Watts guide. Don't know why it got bumped up.

By Corey McCarthy
From: Redmond, OR
Feb 7, 2011
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c

Heel hook for sure.

By Toby Butterfield
From: Portland, OR
Aug 28, 2011

Super fun. It keeps on ya after the big move, but if you keep your head about you it's doable. Don't lose focus at the top, mantling on that ledge can be tricky!

Did something break off? I can't think of any reason the grade got bumped up.

By another Chad
Mar 24, 2013

Hooking the flake makes it easier??? I think that may depend on your body type. For me it definitely was not easier. - Karsten

I agree. It's certainly worth a try but don't get sucked into thinking heel-hooking is the only way, or even the best way to get through the crux deadpoint/dyno. For me, it's not.


Chad

By jordand
From: Seattle, WA
May 28, 2013
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c

Fun route, but kind of a one-move wonder. Above the crux it's a jug haul.