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Dairy Queen Wall - Left Side
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Brazier Food T 
Chili Dog T 
Double Delight T 
Faith Healer T 
Five Tree T 
Foot Massage, The T 
Get Right or Get Left (aka Addams Family) T 
Gomez T 
Leap Erickson T 
Leap of Faith T 
Leap Year Flake T 
Look Before You Leap T 
Lurch T 
Mojus (aka Slushie), The T 
Norm S 
Pat Adams Dihedral T 
Snake Oil T 
Tofutti T 
Toxic Waltz T 

Toxic Waltz 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Tom Gilje & Mike Lechlinksi, 1990
Page Views: 492
Submitted By: Drewsky on Feb 10, 2008

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Toxic Waltz is short but it's steep and has some i...

Description 

To the right of Pat Adams Dihedral is this steep arete. Five bolts lead up the arete. This climb is MUCH more difficult than currently rated, in part because I broke a crimp while trying it in January of '06. At the current time, the crux is probably a V7 boulder problem followed by a difficult perch move on a large horn and more thin face climbing. The climbing is very good and the position is spectacular.


Location 

This route is located a pitch off the ground; it starts on a ledge above Leap Year Flake, a good pitch in its own right. The formation is a good ways left of the "main" right section of the Dairy Queen Wall.


Protection 

At least five quickdraws. Beware the first clipping hold/stick clip the first bolt: a broken hold/fall would deposit the climber directly onto a yucca (or nolina; not sure which) and possibly off the ledge if the belayer is not anchored. No anchor exists at the top save old slings around a bush/sapling: exercise extreme caution with the bush/sapling and maybe bring something else to leave up there. It is possible to walk off via a complicated route over the top and down and around the back of the formation. 5th class climbing/downclimbing/traversing is mandatory.



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By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
Feb 12, 2008

Why do you suppose there is no bolted belay/rap anchor less the vegetation sling?

By Randy
Feb 14, 2008

This route was not put up as a sport route. At the time, putting anchor bolts in to make quick and easy descents was not the common practice if natural anchors were available. Times change.

By Kris Solem
From: Monrovia, CA
Oct 17, 2011

I did this one with Hidetaka Suzuki bitd. Well actually he did it, second try. It did me, I would have had to come back a few times probably (which I didn't.)

Back then folks were calling it 5.13. Hidetaka did not suggest a downgrading. I remember after his send he came down and lit up a smoke, looked me in the eye and said "Kris, sometimes I think I am a pretty bold climber."

I was nursing a nasty swollen ankle from the flyer I took on my second try, and could not disagree.