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To the right of Pat Adams Dihedral is this steep arete. Five bolts lead up the arete. This climb is MUCH more difficult than currently rated, in part because I broke a crimp while trying it in January of '06. At the current time, the crux is probably a V7 boulder problem followed by a difficult perch move on a large horn and more thin face climbing. The climbing is very good and the position is spectacular.
This route is located a pitch off the ground; it starts on a ledge above Leap Year Flake, a good pitch in its own right. The formation is a good ways left of the "main" right section of the Dairy Queen Wall.
At least five quickdraws. Beware the first clipping hold/stick clip the first bolt: a broken hold/fall would deposit the climber directly onto a yucca (or nolina; not sure which) and possibly off the ledge if the belayer is not anchored. No anchor exists at the top save old slings around a bush/sapling: exercise extreme caution with the bush/sapling and maybe bring something else to leave up there. It is possible to walk off via a complicated route over the top and down and around the back of the formation. 5th class climbing/downclimbing/traversing is mandatory.
|By Adam Stackhouse|
Feb 12, 2008
Why do you suppose there is no bolted belay/rap anchor less the vegetation sling?
Feb 14, 2008
This route was not put up as a sport route. At the time, putting anchor bolts in to make quick and easy descents was not the common practice if natural anchors were available. Times change.
|By Kris Solem|
From: Monrovia, CA
Oct 17, 2011
I did this one with Hidetaka Suzuki bitd. Well actually he did it, second try. It did me, I would have had to come back a few times probably (which I didn't.)
Back then folks were calling it 5.13. Hidetaka did not suggest a downgrading. I remember after his send he came down and lit up a smoke, looked me in the eye and said "Kris, sometimes I think I am a pretty bold climber."
I was nursing a nasty swollen ankle from the flyer I took on my second try, and could not disagree.