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Notch, cave side (SW)
Routes Sorted
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Behind the Eight Ball T 
China Syndrome T 
Even Steven T 
Geek Corners T 
Roadside Floral Curtain S 
Route of All Evil or F.M.B., The T 
Slapshot S 
Sucker Punch S 
Tang T 
Toxic Shock T 
View from the Bridge, The T 
Wall to Wall Fanny T 
Working Man T 
Yellow Cake T,S 

Toxic Shock 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Steve Strong, Greg White
Page Views: 5,468
Submitted By: Lizzy Trower on Jan 27, 2006

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BETA PHOTO: The 5.9 start.


Toxic Shock is one of the most gorgeous parallel 5.9 handcracks I've ever seen. To get there, follow the Inner Walls trail way up, cross the stream to your left, just below a large boulder, and continue up towards the west side of the canyon.

The Toxic Shock area has a crack and a bolted arete leading up to an intermediate ledge with a rap station. For Toxic Shock, either layback the crack to the left of the bolted arete (not terribly well protected), or start around the corner to the right on the two 5.8 cracks. Above the ledge, Toxic Shock is the gorgeous amazing handcrack.


Standard trad rack with several (2-4) #1 Camalots (or equivalent) unless you are very comfortable on Index 5.9. If you are starting with the 5.8 cracks, some bigger gear (e.g. #3 Camalot) is nice. There is a rap station/anchor at the top.

Photos of Toxic Shock Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: JP on the upper splitter crack of Toxic Shock
JP on the upper splitter crack of Toxic Shock
Rock Climbing Photo: From across the way.
From across the way.
Rock Climbing Photo: JP on Toxic Shock
JP on Toxic Shock
Rock Climbing Photo: JP getting ready to send the 5.9 layback crux on T...
JP getting ready to send the 5.9 layback crux on T...
Rock Climbing Photo: Unknown climbers on the 5.8 twin cracks variation.
Unknown climbers on the 5.8 twin cracks variation.

Comments on Toxic Shock Add Comment
Show which comments
By Devin Bishop
Aug 8, 2015

Was climbing this route recently and noticed that the (rather newly installed) Fixe anchors had been moved away from the corner on the right side of the crack to the face on the left side of the crack. The previous hangers are still in place however. Anyhow, I prefer the new location, since it keeps the rope out of the climber's way when TR'ing the route. Doesn't change anything for the leader either. Also noticed that the old, moldy rappel tat had been cleaned off the tree above too. Be nice if someone could cut out that mangled #2 fixed Camelot....
By Addict
Feb 2, 2006
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

The upper crack starts as #1 Camalot, but is mostly #2 Camalot. The first pitch protects perfectly with Aliens. There is a rest 1/4 the way up. Can easily be done as one pitch with the lieback start or one of the two 5.8 handcracks around the arete to the right.
By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Jul 3, 2006
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

A classic route. The left (layback) start protects perfectly with #0.5 Camalots or red Aliens. The upper crack does go from #1-#3 Camalots as the previous comment mentions. A good rack would be one set of small cams/TCUs, and then doubles of #1-#3 Camalots + nuts. I also did the right start which was fun, but not as enjoyable as the layback in my opinion.
By MegaGaper2000
From: Indianola, Wa
Mar 25, 2012

Lower left crack (before intermediate ledge) is inward flaring, I think that's what the OP meant by 'harder to protect.
By Douglas T
Aug 4, 2013

By Jon Nelson
Aug 5, 2013

Another nice video. Good job.

A little drama on the layback at the start, but then a jam cruise.
By Alex Seattle
Sep 8, 2014

#2 camalot is still fixed near top of pitch. I believe if you use the Even Steven approach (eg right side of the arĂȘte) then the whole thing is only 5.8

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