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Toxic Shock 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Steve Strong, Greg White
Page Views: 3,215
Submitted By: Lizzy Trower on Jan 27, 2006
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Description 

Toxic Shock is one of the most gorgeous parallel 5.9 handcracks I've ever seen. To get there, follow the Inner Walls trail way up, cross the stream to your left, just below a large boulder, and continue up towards the west side of the canyon.

The Toxic Shock area has a crack and a bolted arete leading up to an intermediate ledge with a rap station. For Toxic Shock, either layback the crack to the left of the bolted arete (not terribly well protected), or start around the corner to the right on the two 5.8 cracks. Above the ledge, Toxic Shock is the gorgeous amazing handcrack.


Protection 

Standard trad rack with several (2-4) #1 Camalots (or equivalent) unless you are very comfortable on Index 5.9. If you are starting with the 5.8 cracks, some bigger gear (e.g. #3 Camalot) is nice. There is a rap station/anchor at the top.



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By Addict
Feb 2, 2006
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

The upper crack starts as #1 Camalot, but is mostly #2 Camalot. The first pitch protects perfectly with Aliens. There is a rest 1/4 the way up. Can easily be done as one pitch with the lieback start or one of the two 5.8 handcracks around the arete to the right.

By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Jul 3, 2006
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

A classic route. The left (layback) start protects perfectly with #0.5 Camalots or red Aliens. The upper crack does go from #1-#3 Camalots as the previous comment mentions. A good rack would be one set of small cams/TCUs, and then doubles of #1-#3 Camalots + nuts. I also did the right start which was fun, but not as enjoyable as the layback in my opinion.

By MegaGaper2000
From: Indianola, Wa
Mar 25, 2012

Lower left crack (before intermediate ledge) is inward flaring, I think that's what the OP meant by 'harder to protect.

By Douglas T
Aug 4, 2013

By Jon Nelson
Administrator
Aug 5, 2013

Another nice video. Good job.

A little drama on the layback at the start, but then a jam cruise.