Towering Inferno  5.11b

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Type:  Sport, 5 pitches, 480 feet Consensus:  5.11a/b [details] FA:  Lewis, Calder, Croft -- 5/98 Season:  The name says it all Submitted By:  Jonathan Howland on Nov 4, 2006 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

rapping off the 1st pitch anchors.

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Description 

For novelty, length, and position, an ORG must-do.
P1 (11a) -- the grand traverse. Start in alcove at lower right of roof. Crux bet. 3rd and 4th bolt. If you're tall you can clip the 3rd bolt from a secure stemming stance. The rest of the pitch is fairly manageable unless you indulge the rookie impulse/mistake and get too high on the traverse. 15 bolts.
P2 (11a) -- Excellent right off the belay with a definitive crux through the small roof, near the 5th bolt, then backs off. 10 bolts.
P3 (10d?) -- The rock deteriorates, but not the climbing. Weird cups & bowls; some meandering. Crux near end of pitch. 10 bolts.
P4 (11b) -- Tricky. Do full recon (with fingers, not eyes) before committing . Crux passing 2nd bolt. 10 bolts
P5 (11a) -- Turn the first corner low. Then a powerful boulder problem rendered less so on account of heel lever on shelf. 5 bolts.
Descent: rap the route with one 60 meter rope, with the final rappel over the roof to the ground.

Protection 

15 draws. Long draws or slings helpful on pitches 3 & 4.