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 ADVANCED
Tower One

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Armed and Hammered S 
Bollocks S 
Brainless Conformants S 
Cause for Alarm S 
Cheap Thrills T 
Dark Star T 
Hell is for Children S 
Little Hellion S 
Medussa S 
Pandora S 
Rezin Scraper S 
Shelter from the Storm S 
What the Hell T 

Tower One  


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 8,500'
Location: 40.59015, -111.64812 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 11,627
Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: James Garrett on Sep 12, 2007
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You & This Area
Best routes for YOU in this area
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  • As for all Hellgate areas
  • Park your car off of the main canyon road.

  • Description 

    Tower One is the southeast most tower of the three main towers. It is usually the first wall one encounters during the approach to Main Hellgate.

    Mugs Stump and friends were the first to really start exploring this area. A high concentration of good climbing in a small area awaits the climber here. Bring gear to supplement the bolt placements as most of the Tower One climbing remains quite trad in character. You'll like it!

    Getting There 

    As for Main Hellgate. Stick to the trail. This will be the first tower low and east that one encounters. Plan on about a 15 minute approach time. Avoid trespassing on private property.

    Climbing Season



    Weather station 1.0 miles from here

    13 Total Routes

    ['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',4],['2 Stars',6],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
    ['<=5.6',0],['5.7',2],['5.8',0],['5.9',1],['5.10',4],['5.11',3],['5.12',3],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

    The Classics

    Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Tower One:
    Little Hellion   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 120'   
    Bollocks   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
    Cause for Alarm   5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 100'   
    Armed and Hammered   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
    Cheap Thrills   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   
    Brainless Conformants   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 2 pitches, 155'   
    Medussa   5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
    Shelter from the Storm   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 2 pitches   
    Pandora   5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 110'   
    Browse More Classics in Tower One

    Featured Route For Tower One
    Medussa at Hellgate.  Looks like hell but its a fu...

    Medussa 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a  UT : Wasatch Range : ... : Tower One
    One of the best sport routes in Little Cottonwood. Starts out slabby, turns vertical and then steepens for the steepest .11 climbing I've seen anywhere....[more]   Browse More Classics in UT

    Photos of Tower One Slideshow Add Photo
    Hellgate Cliffs
    BETA PHOTO: Hellgate Cliffs

    Comments on Tower One Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Nubbins80
    From: Salt Lake City, Utah
    Aug 7, 2008
    Does anyone have info on the route just right of Medussa that travels up through the steepest part of the cave?

    Thanks
    By Allen Briggs
    Jun 18, 2015
    Does anyone have the info on the two moderate routes just to the right of Hell is for Children? This section of wall now has 3 routes. The middle route was 8 bolts and felt about 5.6. I didn't try the right most route but it looked similar. They both have dark grey hangers and are much easier to spot than HIFC. Fun moderate additions to Hellgate.
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