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The Tower of the Moon is a small Flatiron which is climbed from the West and North rather than from the East. It has typical flatiron rock, with the climbing being mostly on the pebbles and edges on the faces with some crack climbing, rather that on the slopers typical of the more pedestrian 'East Face' jaunts.The three established/published lines are on the West/Northwest aspects of the rock and get afternoon sun or no sun at all. The routes all have some runouts, all require at least some gear, and start at the 5.10 level.There is some obvious additional new route potential, apparently in the 5.10 to 5.11 range on the SW face.
Hike the Mesa Trail from the South as for the Matron, passing below the Matron, after a short additional hike, you will reach the Shadow Canyon Trail. Once in Shadow Canyon, keep and eye up and right (N.E.) to see the forked spires of the Jamcrack Spire. Just below these in elevation and slightly to the SW is the smaller rock called Tower of the Moon. As you reach a point almost directly West of this, scramble up the talus feild for 1/4 mile to the base of the rock. Sturdy shoes, particularly with sticky rubber could make this an easier approach. You will probably arrive at the rock's SW face, and all routes will be on the SE face, more directly facing the Jamcrack Spire and Devil's thumb. Expect a 1 hour+ approach.
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Tower Of The Moon:
Eaves Dropper 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b R Trad, 250'
Featured Route For Tower Of The Moon
Eaves Dropper 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b R CO : Flatirons : ... : Tower Of The Moon
This route lies on the 'left side' of the back of Tower Of the Moon. This would be more or less a North Face route, but for the fact that this tower is slightly angled westward. It gets afternoon sun coming across it.The first pitch seems almost contrived, as one can climb 20' of easy terrain to reach the top of it and then run that into the second pitch. Done either way, this is a pretty good Route.P1- 5.10b, 70': On the North/North-west face of the Tower of the moon, you will see a set of thi...[more] Browse More Classics in CO
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