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 ADVANCED
The Great Black North
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bete Noir S 
Black Toe Arete S 
Borg, The S 
Burnt Toast, The S 
Capital Outlay S 
Chuana Chavaria S 
Cold Feet S 
Datura S 
Delilah S 
Don't Eat Stuff on the Sidewalk S 
Don't Make Me Shave You S 
It's All Gone S 
Laugh the Past Away S 
Locutus S 
Magus, The S 
Pincher S 
Resistance is Futile S 
Skank to Crank S 
Three Doubles S 
Torch & Twang S 
Tout Tout de Suite S 
Tower of Power S 
Triage S 
Where Paradise Ain't So Crowded (aka "Reamer") S 

Tower of Power 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 65'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Mark Van Horn
Page Views: 337
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Jun 30, 2009

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Midway up the steep Tower of Power. Things start ...

Description 

Tower of Power climbs an impressive sweep of curving white limestone on thin, sharp pockets and hidden edges. The route begins easily, gets steadily more difficult, and culminates with a dynamic, pumpy finish.

Begin from a grass-covered terrace, 15' left of the Dreamer Pit. Launch up the easy, black & white-speckled slab. Just below mid-height, traverse right to a shallow groove, then cut back left to an interesting, shallow arete feature. Grope your way up the arete, then move desperately out right to a final shake before the intimidating overhang. Fire up and left past positive three-finger pockets to a sinister move below the anchor.

Location 

Mid-way along the Great Black North cliffband, an impressive fin of rock, known as the Slice of Bread, juts out over the cliff. "Triage", one of Shelf's most difficult routes climbs this amazing bulge. Immediately right (W) of this fin is a white, sweeping wave of rock. Tower of Power climbs this white wall.

Protection 

Bolts, 2 bolt anchor. Stick clip highly recommended!


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