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The Great Black North
Routes Sorted
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Bete Noir 
Black Toe Arete 
Borg, The 
Burnt Toast, The 
Capital Outlay 
Chuana Chavaria 
Cold Feet 
Don't Eat Stuff on the Sidewalk 
Don't Make Me Shave You 
It's All Gone 
Laugh the Past Away 
Magus, The 
Resistance is Futile 
Skank to Crank 
Three Doubles 
Torch & Twang 
Tout Tout de Suite 
Tower of Power 
Where Paradise Ain't So Crowded (aka "Reamer") 

Tower of Power 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a

Type: Sport, 1 pitch, 65'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Mark Van Horn
Page Views: 315
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Jun 30, 2009
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Midway up the steep Tower of Power. Things start ...

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Tower of Power climbs an impressive sweep of curving white limestone on thin, sharp pockets and hidden edges. The route begins easily, gets steadily more difficult, and culminates with a dynamic, pumpy finish.

Begin from a grass-covered terrace, 15' left of the Dreamer Pit. Launch up the easy, black & white-speckled slab. Just below mid-height, traverse right to a shallow groove, then cut back left to an interesting, shallow arete feature. Grope your way up the arete, then move desperately out right to a final shake before the intimidating overhang. Fire up and left past positive three-finger pockets to a sinister move below the anchor.


Mid-way along the Great Black North cliffband, an impressive fin of rock, known as the Slice of Bread, juts out over the cliff. "Triage", one of Shelf's most difficult routes climbs this amazing bulge. Immediately right (W) of this fin is a white, sweeping wave of rock. Tower of Power climbs this white wall.


Bolts, 2 bolt anchor. Stick clip highly recommended!

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