Toviah Tower  5.8+

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Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 550 feet, Grade III FA:  Paul Ross, Layne Potter New Route:  Yes Submitted By:  USBRIT on Sep 5, 2005 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Toviah Tower from the North

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Description 

Toviah Tower III 550' 5.8+.

The route starts from the gully (SW side of the tower) on the right that separates Toviah from Nemo. Its about a half hour easy walk from campsite. Midway along the walk the White Knight tower can be seen on the left about a mile down in the Eagle Canyon area. Toviah Tower is unusual for a desert tower in that the crux pitches involve slab climbing.

P1) Walk into the gully, and the route starts up the slab just right of a large dead tree leaning against the rock. Trend left above the tree to the foot of an open groove (drilled angle piton), and then up the groove to double anchors.190' 5.7+ R

P2) Angle up left past a bolt at 20', and then left to the gray band of rock (bolt). Continue straight up past another bolt to the south summit ridge. 160' 5.8+ R

P3) 4th class up the ridge towards the summit until it steepens about 60' from the top.

P4) Go right to a bush in a groove below a chimney just below the summit. Up the slab and chimney to a fine summit(double anchors) and great views over the northern swell. 60' 5.4

Descent :- Rap the route. FA. Paul Ross Layne Potter 5th Sept 2005.

Protection 

Cams:-#.75 camalot, #1 camalot, #3 camalot, #4 Friend. Two 60M ropes.

Photos of Toviah Tower Slideshow

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Ross and Potter on the first pitch	On the summit of Toviah, the view over the Northe...	The route
Maura Hahnenberger on the summit of Toviah Tower, ...	The 5.8 second pitch