|Spiral Staircase area
This is a short route located about fifty yards left of Slabutt. It has a quick overhang off the ground, then there is three bolts worth of slab. Pull the lip to very moderate ice. The crux is the slap.
Three bolts to one or two short screws.
Bolt anchors under the large roof.
Carl Pluim connecting the ice on Tourette's, Jan. ...
|By Dan Battin|
Jan 23, 2005
I am not sure about the M rating. I [guessed] M6 because of the delicate crux. Oh yeah, I [meant] the crux was the "slab" not the "slap"
|By Roy Leggett|
Jan 24, 2005
...A helpful hold broke from just below the overhang last year, upping the ante a bit. Slab climbing w/ crampons and tools is really fun. Take your meds....
|By Matt Juth|
Feb 8, 2005
This line is getting a bit overclimbed. A lot of the hooks are now pick width gouges giving it a manufactured feel. The 3" ledge below the ice is also shedding a few chunks. Gotta love the soft stone!
|By Brad Grohusky|
From: Frisco, CO
Feb 8, 2005
...[This route was done in] a high water season in which the route to the right of Tourette's came in (Imapness). It since then has been marginal drips and not really worthy of any attempts. Even Tourette's seems thinner than back in those years.
|By Lew Strong|
From: Loveland/Vail, CO
Feb 7, 2010
rating: WI4- M6+ R
This year the ice is far above the last rusty bolt. Pulling onto the ice requires a couple of super powerful moves. Blowing the moves above the bolt would be an ankle breaker. Traversing in from Dragon's Breath and placing a 22cm screw with a long sling to clip at the crux would be a reasonable option to improve the safety. Nice new anchors. The bolts on the slab are pretty rusty.
|By Rob Griz|
Mar 14, 2011
The bolts have been replaced by the local contingent. The original bolts were 3/8 by @ 1" long, self-drilling style with a sleeve. They snapped off pretty easily with a few blows of a hammer. They have been replaced with 3/8 by 4" long Rawl 5-piece expansion bolts. Climb safe and enjoy this classic line!
|By brian wilson|
Oct 30, 2011
Is this the same Pete Tapley who is one of the featured climbers in Alpinist 36, Hyalite Canyon?
|By Princess Mia|
Jan 31, 2012
rating: WI4- M6
It is nice to have new bolts. Thanx!
One comment, it is pretty cruxy getting to the second bolt, and if falling there, a grounder is possible and for sure the belayer will get totally skewered by the leader's poons. I say be very, very careful and attentive there.