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Spiral Staircase area
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801 S 
8mm T 
Boxed In (aka Stemcicle) T,S 
Dragon's Tongue T,S 
IMAPNISS 
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Pink Funhouse S 
Public Masturbation S 
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Slabutt T 
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Titties 'n' Beer S 
Tourette's T 
Unnamed S 

Tourette's 

WI4- M6

   
Type:  Trad, Mixed, Ice, 1 pitch
Consensus: WI4- M6 [details]
FA: Pete Tapley, '93 or '94
Season: Mid Winter
Page Views: 1,181
Submitted By: Dan Battin on Jan 22, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
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Lean conditions, eh?

Description 

This is a short route located about fifty yards left of Slabutt. It has a quick overhang off the ground, then there is three bolts worth of slab. Pull the lip to very moderate ice. The crux is the slap.


Protection 

Three bolts to one or two short screws.


Toprope Protection 

Bolt anchors under the large roof.



Photos of Tourette's Slideshow Add Photo
Carl Pluim connecting the ice on Tourette's, Jan. 2012.
Carl Pluim connecting the ice on Tourette's, Jan. ...
Comments on Tourette's Add Comment
Show which comments
By Dan Battin
Jan 23, 2005

I am not sure about the M rating. I [guessed] M6 because of the delicate crux. Oh yeah, I [meant] the crux was the "slab" not the "slap"

By Roy Leggett
Jan 24, 2005

...A helpful hold broke from just below the overhang last year, upping the ante a bit. Slab climbing w/ crampons and tools is really fun. Take your meds....

By Matt Juth
From: Evergreen
Feb 8, 2005

This line is getting a bit overclimbed. A lot of the hooks are now pick width gouges giving it a manufactured feel. The 3" ledge below the ice is also shedding a few chunks. Gotta love the soft stone!

By Brad Grohusky
From: Frisco, CO
Feb 8, 2005

...[This route was done in] a high water season in which the route to the right of Tourette's came in (Imapness). It since then has been marginal drips and not really worthy of any attempts. Even Tourette's seems thinner than back in those years.

By Lew Strong
From: Loveland/Vail, CO
Feb 7, 2010
rating: WI4- M6+ R

This year the ice is far above the last rusty bolt. Pulling onto the ice requires a couple of super powerful moves. Blowing the moves above the bolt would be an ankle breaker. Traversing in from Dragon's Breath and placing a 22cm screw with a long sling to clip at the crux would be a reasonable option to improve the safety. Nice new anchors. The bolts on the slab are pretty rusty.

By Rob Griz
From: Frisco
Mar 14, 2011
rating: WI4+ M6 PG13

The bolts have been replaced by the local contingent. The original bolts were 3/8 by @ 1" long, self-drilling style with a sleeve. They snapped off pretty easily with a few blows of a hammer. They have been replaced with 3/8 by 4" long Rawl 5-piece expansion bolts. Climb safe and enjoy this classic line!

By brian wilson
Oct 30, 2011

Is this the same Pete Tapley who is one of the featured climbers in Alpinist 36, Hyalite Canyon?

By Princess Mia
From: Vail
Jan 31, 2012
rating: WI4- M6

It is nice to have new bolts. Thanx!

One comment, it is pretty cruxy getting to the second bolt, and if falling there, a grounder is possible and for sure the belayer will get totally skewered by the leader's poons. I say be very, very careful and attentive there.