Delicate face climbing; a ledge rest; small and off-camber holds in a broken crack system.
A thin start with a bit of weaving to the left and then back to the first bolt, followed by careful movement on tricky handholds. A welcome undercling with slopey, slippery feet and finally a few larger holds and a respite from the delicate movement.
After a rest on the shelf continue up with some trickery that involves lieback-style moves from one side to the other, one bomber handjam, and more delicate climbing.
The first bolted line to the left of the “chimney” crack that is at the left side of the large roof on the left side of the west face of P.A.’s Mother.
5 bolts, hangers-and-ring anchors.
|By Christian "crisco" Burrell|
From: PG, Utah
May 21, 2008
I remember this being very inobvious to climb...the pump came from searching for eaxactly where to go.
|By Tristan Higbee|
May 7, 2009
Good route that felt pretty darn hard. Yeah, inobvious is a good description. The crux for me was figuring out what to do with those crappy little underclings above the ledge...
May 19, 2009
A bit deceiving, my partner and I took a look at this and thought oh we could run up this real quick to warm up on....yeah, it didn't work out like that! You get one rest in the middle of the route, but other than that the route is really consistent to the grade. We were confused on the start, the guide pic stays on the face, the route description says between the arete and the main crack. I tried it both and found them both to be about the same, maybe a touch more committing on the main face (same face as the bolts). I'd recommend warming up and THEN climbing this route.
|By Canyon Copa|
Jun 1, 2012
Had a similar experience bringing a group of beginners up here on a busy day and thought this route looked doable for everybody. We moved on to an easier route after I finished it. Not a good route for beginners.